Factory Pro Shift STAR

Suzuki gsx1300r Hayabusa Gen 1 99-07 and Gen 2 08+

Install notes:
Installation requires countershaft sprocket removal. Impact wrench recommended
8mm box wrench and socket set Most newer 12 point 8mm wrenches are thin enough to work in these close quarters.
Does not require case splitting.

Estimated shop time: 1.0 to 2.5 hours

Suggest to do when replacing chain and sprockets.

It's possible that some individual frames may be bent and welded very slightly differently, but we haven't seen one, yet.

Thanks to Mike A from Alberta, CAN aka mike1180 of Hayabusa.org and thebusa.com, for the pics and instruction template April 21, 2010

  1. Put the transmission in neutral.
    1. Drain the oil,
    2. Remove left fairing,
    3. Coolant overflow,
    4. Kickstand assembly (2 large bolts),
    5. Clutch slave mount,
    6. Shifter linkage,
    7. This now exposes the sprocket, water pump and shifter housing
      1. Remove the 2 bolts holding the water pump. (it just pulls out when these 2 (red) are removed)
        1. There is a slot on the back of the water pump shaft that has to be lined up when re-installing so look at it now.
        2. Plug the hole with a cloth or towel.
  1. Remove sprocket nut (impact wrench)
  2. Speed sensor allen bolt
  3. Sprocket
  4. Tie up chain (or put out of the way)
  1. Remove the 5 bolts holding on the shifter housing. There is one bolt (red arrow) that you need a thin or offset 8mm 12 point box wrench for. These box end wrenches would work.
  1. Pull the shifter housing off towards you. (leave the shift shaft in the cover so you can see how it will go back on)
    1. Sometimes 1 or 2 of the alignment dowels will stick in the cases and will prevent a screw from coming out  and keep you from getting the cover out - use needle nose pliers to lift them out of the case and up the screw shaft if necessary.
    2. You have to turn the cover about 90 degrees or so as it comes off, to clear the frame. Also have to jiggle it a bit for that 1 troublesome bolt to dislodge itself.
  2. Here is a pic with the shaft still in the housing (inside view). Now that you have studied it, pull off the shaft.
  1. Remove the allen screw that holds on the star, and the 10mm headed bolt that holds on the detent arm.
  1. Remove the old star, the old detent arm and spring.
  2. Replace with the new ones from the kit.
    1. They are simple and can only go on one way.
    2. The star has a small offset hole and that lines up with a pin on the end of the shifter fork hub.
  3. Reinstall the allen screw on the star  5-7 ft lbs torque
  4. Reinstall the detent arm pivot bolt   5-7 ft lbs torque
  5. Replace gasket with new supplied gasket.
  1. Remove the shift assembly shaft from the housing cover.
  2. Install it into the shift mechanism.
    1. Be sure to line up the oval opening of the shift arm over the pins on the star.
    2. Line up the shift shaft centering spring
  1. When you assemble, make sure these spring's 2 arms go over over this gold pin - one arm of spring on each side of the pin.
  2. Slide the shifter housing back over the shifter shaft and install the 5 bolts.

  3. Check and see if it shifts nicely  (put the shifter lever on temporarily)  BEFORE you put the water pump and sprocket, etc back on.
    1. When test shifting through the gears, you MUST rotate the countershaft sprocket shaft back and forth to allow the gear dogs and slots to line up inside the gearbox.
    2. If the transmission won't shift through the all the gears (while rotating the shaft back and forth), stop - There is something wrong (somehow) in your assembly). Recheck your work - If it's not right now, and you don't figure out what it is, I promise you... It won't fix itself......  or "get better" after riding -
      That being said, it's pretty hard to assemble wrong.
  4. Now all goes back together.

    TIP: Always put a dab of grease on all the oil seals or o-rings when putting them back together.
Through the magic of "cut and paste", you will soon have what looks like this and
Then like this.