RSV4 Shift Spring Install
If this intimidates,
Slowly step away from the 1/2 air impact wrench......
1. Aprilia Shop Manual
3. Normal mechanic's tools
4. 5mm allen wrench
5. 1/2" Impact wrench
6. std depth 27mm socket
7. new clutch cover gasket
|Drain the oil.
Remove the clutch cover and secure out of the way.
Careful, the starter idle gear usually falls out.
|Carefully remove the 6 5mm headed clutch allen
Sometimes the steel bolt "post" unscrews with the clutch screw - No matter, you can take the post and screw apart later and loctite the post into the clutch hub.
|Remove the outer pressure plate.
|Note the staggered semi-circles on the clutch
Keep that relationship (look at the Aprilia Service manual).
I'm sure there's some magic in the setup but it appears that every 2 change. Or there's an snickering engineer overseas who likes red herrings.
|Now, remove the 27mm clutch nut. It's "normal"
thread. Be sure to "unstake" the nut flange (if yours is staked).
Under the nut is a thrust washer (check that in the manual, I'm doing this from memory) and the slipper clutch 3 legged spring.
You can see, at 7 o'clock, that one of our "clutch spring posts" unscrewed with the clutch screw.
|Remover inner clutch hub and the thrust washer.|
|Gently pull the outer clutch basket out.
Then remove the caged needle bearing from the shaft.
Clutch hub and oil pump gear removed.
There is a steel thrust washer on the clutch shaft that can stay there.
|Here is the spring you are replacing.
Unscrew the pivot bolt. Use a pair of pliers to hold the detent are from bearing on the screw - to protect the last few threads or loosen the pivot bolt and angle the bearing on the arm outwards, towards you, to get it off the "star" section and out to the "pin" section for less preload.
|After you have removed the arm and stock spring,
assemble the stock detent arm and the new spring and
Stepped steel washer (step facing arm)
flat steel washer
Arm shown in slack position
|Arm twisted in more normal position.
For getting that arm to line up with the stepped washer, a good set of 6" pliers to wiggle the arm around a bit as you are tightening up the pivot bolt in stages.
If you don't line up the stepped washer with the detent arm's pivot hole, the arm will be pinched and not move freely when the bolt is tightened.
After the bolt is tight, use the pliers to test the arm for free movement.
Grab the arm - not the bearing.
|Check that the bike
shifts through all the gears.
You will have to turn / rock the clutch shaft to allow the gears to align, though. Just rocking the clutch shaft back and forth is sufficient.
Shift and rock and shift and rock as required to get all the gears, up and down.
It should feel and sound more "snappy".
If it doesn't shift through all the gears, something's not aligned.
|Line up oil pump gear, flange out to back of the
clutch basket and place basket onto the clutch shaft.
Replace the needle bearing.
If everything is lined up, the needle bearing will be level with the floor of the basket.
|Replace the thrust washer.
Replace slipper clutch hub.
|Replace thrust washer and inner clutch hub.|
|Replace slipper clutch spring, washer and nut.
Torque to Aprilia specs.
Stake lock flange (not done yet in this pic)
|Install the 1st 3 plates and then install the "break free" rings.||
|Continue to reinstall the rest of the plates, keeping the original tab offsets.|
|Reinstall clutch springs and screws.|
|Install the new gasket and cover, making sure the
clutch throwout is aligned.
REPLACE THE OIL!!!
Comments? I must have missed something!
Put all the rest of this stuff back on.
Definitely use LocTite on the clutch nut and torque to factory Aprilia specs.
If in doubt at all - do what your manual says.
safety checks necessary. Test ride carefully!
Any problems? Call 800 869-0497 ask for Tech
Enjoy your new sweet shifting! And be able to "find" neutral.
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