Factory Pro's Shift STAR kit - help prevent missed shifts and damage caused by missed shifts.

YZ250/450f Evo Shift STAR Kit

The EVO Shift STAR Upgrade kit will upgrade your bike to the latest, greatest shift action.

Perfect for when you are tired of paying attention to shifting and just want it to shift right. MX. SM, Desert,  trail -

Virtually eliminate missed shifts  - decreases shift process 5mm to 15ms (must re-set shift kill duration if using a Quickshifter)

Make shifting MUCH quicker and virtually eliminate missed shifts. Helps address missed shifts caused by poor shift detent "star" profile.
Helps prevent shift fork and gear engagement dog damage caused by missed shifts.

The Factory Pro Shift STAR kit is an awesome upgrade for the Yamaha.

Installation: Slightly more complicated than replacing the clutch basket.

No case splitting required.

Installation Instructions - click here
 

Feedback

Yamaha Shift Star kit worked awesome!  Not one missed shift all weekend.  Easier to find neutral, too - Which is good because I have to put it in neutral to start it for some reason. Doesn't like to start with the clutch in. With the close ratio tranny, I did a lot of shifting.

Leigh Thomas - Mojave area

Keihin FCR Carb Recalibration Kits - patented Factory Pro HDJ style

CRB-CY28-1.7-RK   $99.95
YZ 250f  03-11

This is probably the best performing, least well known FCR carb kit sold for the 250.

Titanium needle, patented tuning components and Stainless steel allen screws for the float bowls. Adds more low-end esp. - and especially more mid and topend power - easier than other kits to install and fine tune.

Includes:
 Factory Pro's famous "Bog be Gone" and "Starts better when hot" features.

This kit is significantly improved beyond the usual dealership level dyno developed kits that are more common..

Adds about 2 TRUE HP to an otherwise "best other jet kit jetted" 250.

For us - it's been interesting - I got, from one the off-road guys who owns a 3 letter abbreviation off road parts supply company, "What are you saying? That you can jet better than Xxxxx Xxxxx?"

Well, actually - yes, maybe we can tune carbs better than Xxxxx Xxxxx.....
 We can do some pretty interesting things to a Keihin FCR carb - including boosting power, response and improving mileage.

So....  This kit will produce about 5% to 8% / 2 True HP better than any other carb kit for the Yam 250 - and the bog that was associated with the Yam 250 is pretty much gone under most conditions.

Keep in mind, though, you still can't be putzing around at 2000 rpm and expect the engine to accept full throttle - That would take a CV type carb - and not an FCR - but at least, you can snap the throttle to 1/2 - 3/4 open and not get a bog -

This kit could never have been developed on a dynojet dyno.
Factory Pro Tuning Centers

Feedback

Dude, my bike freakin' rips now !! I thought it ran great before. Way better now. Our jet kit rocks! 
Leigh Thomas - Factory Pro Tuning - March 14, 2011
w/290cc kit

Note!!!
This in NOT, NOT, NOT, NOT, NOT dynojet inflated HP Scale!!!!!
This REAL HP - NOT, NOT, NOT a ridiculous 42 dynojet hp on a 250 four stroke engine that revs to 12,000 rpm, improperly factored HP. That goes for other dyno companies that try to "emulate" dj inflation factors.
This is TRUE HP
 

FEEDBACK

Dear Factory Pro,

Below are the final settings on my 2003 WR250 with your kit #: CRB-Y28-1.7-RK.  Many thanks to Raul for responding very quickly to my (approx 6) calls during the tuning in process.

First, I had the local Honda/Suzuki/KTM shop (Sierra Motorsports, Grass Valley, CA) do the initial drilling and jetting.  Perry is the main mechanic and is familiar with your products.  He set it per your recommendations:

Main: 138
Pilot:  40
Clip position:  #4
Fuel screw;  2.5 turns out

FYI:  The bike ran very rich with these settings.  I am at 3000 ft elevation and the outside temps were 70-80 degrees.  The bike is a 2003 WR250, but with YZ250 exhaust cam, YZ stock exhaust pipe, and all the WR "free" mods done.  Basically, the bike is now a YZ250, but with the advantages of an WR electric start and lights (for my woods riding).

Solution, after several trial and error changes and talking with Raul:

Main: 135
Pilot:   35
Clip position:  #2
Fuel screw: 1 turn out

The bike runs well at these settings.  Only a slight burble exists at 1/8 throttle, but it is not a bog.  While the settings seem all on the lean side, once I buy a more-open air filter  K/N filter) and get an after market exhaust, the settings will likely need to go richer.

I will appreciate any of your thoughts on the results.

Chris Stecko

Chris -  I'd expect that you'd be about 2 main jets smaller than sea level (~1 main per 1500ft, the old Salvisberg rule). Because you've changed the exhaust cam, though - that can change jetting requirements - up or down -

If you've got the main jet installed that makes best topend power, the needle height that delivers the best 50% and 75% throttle opening topend power, the float height setting for best topend power at 25% throttle opening and the pilot jet setting that delivers best idle and teeny throttle opening response - then you are done - Good job!

<CHUCKLE!> You can see how someone who doesn't know jetting could get flustered, neglect to fine tune and decide a jet kit (when thrown in at base settings) "doesn't work"!!

Best regards -  Marc

Initial response/hard pull right from the bottom all the way to the top. Two other guys that ride an 04 and a 05 both road it and said the same. Low end pull seemed to be the "big thing" but all said it was stronger all the way through.  All three are experienced road racers and one is a long time hairscrambler so I trust their "Levi's dyno"

Marc Salvisberg <factory2@ix.netcom.com> wrote:

I'm not at work to check - but... Great!   What did he mention, specifically?  Happy Easter!

-----Original Message-----
>From: 2K MOTORSPORTS
>Sent: Apr 15, 2006 5:02 PM
>To: Marc Salvisberg
>Subject: FYI
>
>Hey Marc
> I while back I asked you if the "06" yz250f carb had changed or needed any thing different for the carb kit. You were guessing but pretty sure the kit would work. And imagine this, you were right! I just heard back from the guy I installed it for and he couldn't shut up about how much he loved it! (no dyno time just recommended set up!) just thought I would tell ya just in case you hadn't had one to look at yet.
>
> Not hard to please customers with products like this!
>
> talk to you soon
> KK

Everybody dies!    Only some of us really live!!!

http://2kmotorsports.tripod.com

cstecko@mac.com

First step is to eliminate the fixed main air jet restriction.
It's about 40mm down the MAJ hole (left picture).

Set your 3mm drill so that it has 45mm to 46mm of drill bit exposed from your drill chuck.
(see right picture)

Remove the stock emulsion tube (that's what the main jet screws into) so that you can clean out the carb well. By only having 45mm to 46mm of the drill bit exposed, it prevents you from drilling too far.

Then, use the supplied tap from our HDJ carb kit, thread the Main Air Jet (aka "MAJ") hole.
You only need to go far enough to be able to thread in the new replaceable jet that we supply.

Clean the hole, of course.

After it's clean, complete the MAJ Modification by installing the supplied Main Air Jet and installing the new Factory Pro HDJ Emulsion Tube.

NOTE!!!
If you aren't confident in your ability or in your understanding of what you are trying to accomplish - no worry - Call us up or talk to someone locally who has more experience in these matters.
If you are still not sure, see if there's a Factory Pro Tuning Center locally or visit your favorite local dealership or shop and get some help there -

We all have to learn, and usually having an experienced person around makes everything "easy".

This modification is something similar to what we've done in many different carb types over the years, though it might be new to some who haven't used our "1.7-RK" carb kits before.