Air Filters

Factory Pro and BMC  have produced the finest cleanable air filter for the VTR that is available. Manufactured to European standards -  High quality injection molded filter frame features integral breather plates, like the original filter. Actually, after seeing and using one of the BMC filters, I'm don't know why anyone would use any "other" aftermarket filter! Yes - we are the US BMC importers!

Carburetor Tuning Kits

CRB-H77-1.7-RK
For Maximum low, mid and topend power for
Road and Track

$149.95 USD

This kit requires a bit more work to install than the 1.0 or 1.1-ti ProKit. The advantage is that the kit will produce a bit more power at all rpms than any standard, drop-in style kit. Tuning is actually easier after the installation at base settings.
There is no loss of lowend power.
Although not tested, there's no good reason why the 1.7-RK Kit wouldn't be useable with a completely stock exhaust system with stock mufflers.
This is simply the best kit.
The BMC filter is the nicest air filter available for the VTR - it's one piece, instead of the other filter that is available, which is a multi-part, comparatively complex unit.
Use below listed the Ignition Advance for best mileage and performance -
Emulsion tube information!
Also - as with ALL VTR1000's - the TPS must be checked and set to 500 +/- 10 ohms - or low speed cruise  smoothness is impossible to attain!
They have been seen as much as 900 ohms as delivered.

July 2006  Adrian Davis wrote:

hi marc, your advice about the tps on the vtr was spot on. mine measured 919 ohms after taking it down to 509 ohms, its a different bike and returns 120 miles per tank as apposed to 90.
its running sweet.
thanks again - ps: your website is ace.

$109.95 USD

Ti ProKit carb kit

Titanium needles for lifetime use. Adds more low-end / midrange, if the proper main jet is selected, more top-end power. Easy to install and tune - no slide drilling. The Ti ProKit has the same needle profile as the 1.0 kit.
Works with a completely stock exhaust system, stock headers and full systems and has enough jets for the BMC air filter.
Emulsion tube information!
Also - as with ALL VTR1000's - the TPS must be checked and set to 500 +/- 10 ohms - or low speed cruise  smoothness is impossible to attain!
They have been seen as much as 800 ohms as delivered.

Ignition Components

$74.95

Improve MILEAGE!!!! (and power)
Our suggested standard advance rotor advances the timing 4 degrees. With stock engines with stock compression ratios, there is more power everywhere. Part throttle power is improved - helping corner exit speeds. Improved in-town drivability. .5-1.5hp top-end increase. The VTR's poor mileage is increased, also - as much as 10% under cruise conditions from reports back.
Works with or without a Carb Recal Kit - Works with stock and aftermarket exhaust.
~$59.95 USD

Transmission Shift Improvement

SHFT-EVO-H77
Trans Detent Spring Kit

$199.95

EVO-7 Shift STAR  Kit

As a professional engine builder (but less and less these days, marc), I've done most everything you can do to a set of gears, and shafts.

• A great (read as 5 to 10 hours of labor) gearbox job generally includes:
   

  • Shimming to minimize lateral play on the gears. (to builder's judgment)

  • Shimming to move each fixed gear closer to it's sliding mate (but not too close) (to builder's judgment)

  • Shimming shafts to move the assembly closer to an optimum position. (to builder's judgment)

  • Using a surface grinder to make your own custom thickness shims.

  • Making sure that you place the "rounded" side of the circlips against any shim or gear

    • That puts the "sharp" edge of the circlip nicely in the circlip retaining groove on the transmission shaft so it doesn't "ramp out" under side loading..

  • Checking and adjusting shift mechanism "fingers" on the shift star "pins". (to builder's judgment)

  • Checking, replacing gears with worn engagement dogs and slots - or undercutting worn engagement dogs.

    • I tend to try to use as little angle on the undercut, as the more undercut angle, the more you have to let off the power to get the gears to separate - important when not using a "quickshifter" or "air shifter".

  • Deburring of most gears, most shafts, the shift drum and the shift forks

    • A commercial facility, such as Supertech, owned by the iconic Dennis Zickrick, in Colorado, does metal finishing and low friction coatings.

  • I don't recommend cryogenically treating powdered metal gears, like most Japanese type gears are - I don't feel it's a good use of the process. I know that I'll get some flack on that. I'm not saying that "cryo" is bad, as I do use it at times for pistons, springs, knives, unfinished gun barrels... just not powdered metal gears or large finished machined castings.
     

• Additionally, separate from the gears and shafts, there's the shift mechanism (shift shaft, selector device, shift fingers, detent arm and spring, detent star)
   

  • Checking straightness of shift shaft (sometimes they get bent on the left, shift linkage / rear set side)

  • Polishing sliding parts in the shift mechanism (to decrease friction of shift drum rotation - and "quicker is better")

  • Reducing friction of the detent arm (arm needs a bearing - which we make as a model requires and "quicker is better")

  • optimizing detent arm spring pressure (if the spring pressure should be changed, we make - and "quicker is better")

  • optimizing detent ramps (if the ramps aren't right, we make replacement "stars" - making it "quicker")
     

• Adding an EVO Shift STAR kit - In general, if the gearbox is setup "alright" (I would say that most stock, original, undamaged transmissiona are "alright"), that just adding the EVO Shift STAR kit is going to be 80% to 90% of what is theoretically possible in improving shifting quickness, reducing missed shifts, decreasing rider effort and protecting the shift forks and gear engagement dogs from damage caused by missed shifts.
   

• How do you know that a transmission is shifting quicker and more reliably?

  • You can feel it when riding.

    • Even when hand shifting on the bench, it's easier to get out of gear and "snicks" into gear, rather than "clunks" into gear (yes, most Kaws won't shift into 2nd unless the output shaft is spinning :-)

  • You notice that you only have time to slightly "twitch" the throttle off a teeny bit between shifts and hardly have time to pull the clutch lever even a little before the bike's already in the next gear.

  • You "try" to miss a shift on bench or riding and almost can't.

  • Your "quickshifter" equipped bike shifts clunkily after an EVO Shift STAR kit install and you have to decrease "shift kill time" by 15 to 20ms to accommodate the EVO STAR's quicker shifting.

    • That 15 to 20ms is now converted to "engine power" time, rather than "engine kill" time. That will improve power delivery time on a racetrack and at the drags.

    • Funny story - an AMA team called up and said the bike's shifted awfully clunky after the Shift STAR - I was mystified and in talking, we couldn't figure out why the riders claimed the clunkiness - as in the pits, it was def. quicker - and didn't even think to ask about whether they were using a quickshifter.
      They called up later and said that they figured out that the "quickshifter" was now killing the power too long and it was perfect when they decreased the shift kill time.

      • BTW - for roadracing, a perfect QS system will have several factors to program. Should still be pretty easy to sort out - and there's nothing commercially available as or Feb 2009, and that includes the guy who supposedly built his own Suzuki ecu, (well, he did make the box at least - the ECU seemed to be a repackaged EFI Technologies ECU according to the software) on the market that's "right" for roadracing, though most all are are fine for drag racing and  "alright" for roadracing.

 Imagine
Last lap, last corner, 110 mph, two wheel drift... passing on the outside, bike carefully controlled by just the subtlest of weight transfer and just a "fingertip touch" on the throttle... you run out of rpm and need to upshift to complete the pass.... you need to shift.... it's ok.... a tap and you are in the 4th, still in a drift....... you keep slightly pulling... around.... slowly past....
you win. 

It's everything that I ever wanted to do to a shift mechanism -
Slightly stronger detent spring - a new MicroBearing detent arm and the final piece... A completely redesigned, empirically refined, multi angled, variable radii, repeaked and valleyed:
EVO-7 Shift STAR
This part will totally change the feel of the bike as a whole. The shifting effort is lighter - and the speed at which the gears actually engage is dramatically improved - Quicker, easier, shifting -

A "twitch" on the lever and the throttle and you are in the next gear! Perfect for track use and road riding for effortless downshifts into a corner and just a "tap" to upshift without any more than a "twitch" off the throttle -

That's not even mentioning that missed shifts virtually disappear!

In town? Low rpm cruise in second - shift to third? So quick and smooth that it will surprise and amaze - NO more clunky, lazy shifting in town - As I said - it's totally different and improved -

Proven concept - Virtually all the Factory Pro Support riders in the AMA and WERA multi- Champions Vesrah Racing tested and proved the EVO-7 Stars in 2003-2005.

Stock shift performance that everybody used to take as a "given" will be regarded as "slow and lazy" after riding an RC-51/ SP-1/2 or VTR1000 with this kit -

Kit includes a new detent arm with a low friction microbearing roller, a performance shift spring and the NEW Factory Pro EVO Detent Star.

Make shifting MUCH quicker and virtually eliminate missed shifts.

Just remove countershaft sprocket, water pump and shift mechanism cover.

Installation:
Remove right side clutch cover.
Remove clutch assembly (impact wrench and large socket set required)
Install new EVO Shift STAR, Microbearing Detent and and Factory Pro Detent Spring>
Reinstall clutch and cover.

No case splitting required

Estimated install time:
1 hour, if you are super quick and have all the tools laid out.
1.5 - 2.5 hours at normal human speeds and what we would charge for in our shop.
3-4 hours if you are a "working hobbyist" and have impact and sockets.
6-8 hours to a week if you are a journalist and not on a deadline.
And 1-2 months if you let me do it.   :-)
Marc

800 869-0497

 

SHFT-PRO-HON-77
Trans Detent Arm Kit

~$99.95 USD

Make shifting MUCH quicker and virtually eliminate missed shifts. Factory Pro's Transmission Detent Arm Kits make the shifting perform as well as the rest of the bike!

See EVO KITS......

Honda VTR1000 *******True Rear Wheel HP

Test Description

• Stock vs. ~2 inch id race slip-ons
• Factory Pro Carb Recalibration Kit

to

• stock ignition timing vs. RTR-HON-77-04
• Race Slip-ons, H77-1.7-rk

to