Kawasaki ZX-9R, 1994-1997 only
(Factory Pro "K27" Series
True Rear Wheel HP Scale
as measured on EC997 Eddy Current Dynamometer

 

part number

description

retail USD


RTR-KAW-31-04
(or +02 or +06)

 

Ignition Advance Rotor. Adds some power at ALL part throttle positions. That equates to more "snap" in throttle response for you!

$54.95

(representative pic only)
RTR-ADJ-KAW-31

Adjustable Ignition Advance Rotor. Adds some power at ALL part throttle positions. That equates to more "snap" in throttle response for you!

+ and - 7 degrees in positive ONE degree increments. No lining up of hash marks and hoping..... Absolute index screw degree setting and NO possibility of losing external adjust screws, like the usual adjustable ones you see. Tell Muzzy's that you want the new tech, foolproof advancer not the "old stuff".

$79.95
CRB-K27-1.7-RK
1.7 RaceKit

$189.95

This is the famous "1.7-RK RACE KIT"!
Willing to do a bit of carb machining (drill and tap w/ supplied taps)?
What if you could have an additional 4-8 True Rear Wheel HP after 10,000 rpm? Want more power than the 98-99 zx9r??
It took the EC997 Low Inertia Eddy Current dynamometer WITH the Integrated 4 Gas Analyzer to map the fuel curve to develop this kit.
This is far, far superior than a Flo-Commander.
Contact your nearest 4 Gas Exhaust Gas Analyzer equipped Factory Pro Tuning Center for best tuning quality - click here.

 

CRB-K27-1.1-TI
Ti ProKit

$149.95

 

Same as 1.0 kit, but with Titanium needles, also a drop-in kit. No slide drilling required.

 

 
CRB-K27-1.0
 

$129.95
 

Best "drop-in" kit available.
Boosts power a bit at full throttle, improves throttle response and wheelie ability. Definitely pulls harder out of 2nd and 3rd gear corners.
No slide drilling required!
 
Billet Engine Cover
COV-K31-RH-KT

SPECIAL!
$59.95!

RH Cover, Billet
For race or street use. Absolutely the strongest cover you can buy. Highest strength / weight ratio available!
More clearance and cover thickness than stock on RH side covers.
Visible on both sides.
Can be show polished to a mirror finish!
Includes: gaskets, if required, and replacement stainless steel allen screws, as required.

$89.95
 


SHFT-PRO-KAW-31

ProShift Kit

Make shifting MUCH quicker and virtually eliminate missed shifts when it's done.

This is the exact same kit that Team Kinko's Kawasaki used in their mighty 750 (same in 750 and 900) used in their highly competitive Kawasaki AMA 750 Supersport bike to make shifting quicker and miss fewer shifts.

This kit will not fix a broken transmission ("rounded dogs, bent forks"), but it WILL make the shift selector mechanism get the shift start where it's supposed to be - and on most bikes, them means quicker shift, slicker shifts and fewer missed shifts, including the "1-2" shift.

$89.95

This Carb Recal Kit developed on the same EC997a Eddy Current dyno that developed the K59-1.7-RK ZX-6R RaceKit (Muzzy and Kinko's choice), the Y73-1.7-RK YZF750 (Vance and Hines choice), S37-1.7-RK GSXR750, Suzuki of France and most of America's privateer racers choice)...

General Technical Support

 

MAGAZINE ARTICLES:

emails

Hi James -

Glad it runs better -

The way jetting actually works (and fuel injection is the same way), is that each bike is potentially different - and temperatures, barometric pressure and humidity are localized influences on what jetting (or fuel injection mapping) works the best.

1. "Fine tuning" is the process in which you slightly tweak the settings to get the absolute best settings for best performance..
2. "Ok settings" are settings that don't produce any misfiring or surging.
3. "Starting settings" are the settings that we give you that we "hope" are at least "#2"......... They are not "recommended", they are "starting" settings.

Whether the "starting settings" are close enough for most people depends on how well the original kit was designed -
On the EC997 dyne systems, it's actually pretty tough to develop a poor jet kit.
On the dynojet side, their dealership level dynos (all of their dynos) would say that what you had before, was "right".

Moral?
Use EC997 dynos and don't use dynojet dynos.

james ward wrote:
The bike runs great.  It pulls hard, and has excellent top end.  It does not even feel like same bike.  I will try using the choke very little and see what happens.  I would rather not mess with your recommend settings.  I hope to spend some time with the bike this weekend to try the fine tuning.  I did sync the carb also right before the jet kit, and set the float height to the factory setting according the book. 13mm.  What do you mean by fine tuning?   Thank you for helping.  James

Marc Salvisberg <factory2@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
If you want the bike to maybe idle with the choke on, you'll have to turn the fuel crew in.
Try a 1/4, and even more in.

You are balancing good running performance vs. "making the choke work". Your choice.

You haven't really done any tuning. We'd spend 1-3 hours on fine tuning.

You haven't mentioned how the bike ran?

M

james ward wrote:
I have not tried any other settings.  I had a dynojet kit in my other zx9r with the pilot 3.5 turns out.  and it would start and run with no choke ever.  Should I turn the pilot back in one half or a quarter turn? 

Marc Salvisberg <factory2@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
You richened up the idle mixture - The choke still thinks it needs to richen enough to work with the "too lean" stock pilot mixture.
The richer pilot circuit mixture + the choke mixture = too rich to "idle high".

You can either lean out the pilot circuit (so it's too lean again) and the choke will idle high, like it used to. Or, (like most everybody else) just start it, then, turn the choke off (as soon as possible) and keep the engine running by hand (which is usual).
I would sit there with the choke on, keeping the engine running > turn the choke off.
You won't hurt the engine by turning the choke off earlier than before;.
Just keep the engine running till it's warm enough to ride safely.

Remember, this is a carbureted bike - not a fuel injected vehicle, probably like your car.\

You didn't mention trying any other settings?
Did you?

Thanks -

Marc

james ward wrote:
Hello.
 
I just installed a factory 1.0 jet kit in my 1995 Kawasaki ZX-9R.  I followed all instructions.  I have done this before, and work on my own bikes all of the time.  This time I'm having bad idle problems.  The first night the bike started right up, smooth idle, great cruising, and mid, and top end.  Power is excellent.  But now every time I go to start the bike with choke on it will not idle.  I have to keep reving it up until warm then it idles.  It will puff out some black smoke also.  carbs were stock before jet kit. Thank you for any help you can provide.
 
James Ward
 
Settings are as follows.
 
Needle third from top
Two washers above needle
Supplied springs used
Pilot 2.5 turns out
Stock 190 Kehin Main jet
 
Vance and Hines 4-1 header with ss2r pipe
K&N filter.  Its clean
Float bowl vents are clean.
Carbs have been cleaned with Pilot screws removed and circuit cleaned.
Stock Ignition advancer
New wires, and new plugs.
Bike has 20k Miles.  Always runs pretty good
Compression is good Just checked.
 
 


 

--   Marc Salvisberg    Factory Pro Dynamometer  800 869-0497    Factory Pro Tuning  415 491-5920    www.factorypro.com  www.truehp.com  www.cleanhp.com    179 Paul Drive  San Rafael, CA 94903    "An Open Mind is Terrible Thing to waste"   C. Grebsivlas

 

 


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-- 
Marc Salvisberg

Factory Pro Dynamometer
800 869-0497

Factory Pro Tuning
415 491-5920

www.factorypro.com
www.truehp.com
www.cleanhp.com

179 Paul Drive
San Rafael, CA 94903

"An Open Mind is Terrible Thing to waste" 
C. Grebsivlas

 

 

Contact Factory Pro
M-F, 9am - 6pm, Pacific time, -7 or -8 GMT

800 869-0497
 USA and Canada

415 491-5920

fax 415 492-8803

parts information
 info@factorypro.com

EC997 dynamometer information
info@factorypro.com

Product Support /Tech SECTION
click here

 

Mailing / Shipping address:
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179 Paul Drive
San Rafael, CA 94903
USA

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