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Kawasaki
ZX-9R, 1994-1997 only |
| part number |
description |
retail USD |
RTR-KAW-31-04 (or +02 or +06) |
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Ignition Advance Rotor. Adds some power at ALL part throttle positions. That equates to more "snap" in throttle response for you! |
$54.95 |
![]() (representative pic only) RTR-ADJ-KAW-31 |
![]() Adjustable Ignition Advance Rotor. Adds some power at ALL part throttle positions. That equates to more "snap" in throttle response for you! + and - 7 degrees in positive ONE degree increments. No lining up of hash marks and hoping..... Absolute index screw degree setting and NO possibility of losing external adjust screws, like the usual adjustable ones you see. Tell Muzzy's that you want the new tech, foolproof advancer not the "old stuff". |
$79.95 |
| CRB-K27-1.7-RK 1.7 RaceKit
$189.95 |
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This is the famous "1.7-RK RACE KIT"!
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| CRB-K27-1.1-TI Ti ProKit
$149.95
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Same
as 1.0 kit, but with Titanium needles, also a drop-in kit. No slide
drilling required.
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$129.95 |
Best "drop-in" kit available. Boosts power a bit at full throttle, improves throttle response and wheelie ability. Definitely pulls harder out of 2nd and 3rd gear corners. No slide drilling required! |
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| Billet Engine Cover COV-K31-RH-KT
SPECIAL! |
RH Cover, Billet |
$89.95 |
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ProShift Kit Make shifting MUCH quicker and virtually eliminate missed shifts when it's done. This is the exact same kit that Team Kinko's Kawasaki used in their mighty 750 (same in 750 and 900) used in their highly competitive Kawasaki AMA 750 Supersport bike to make shifting quicker and miss fewer shifts. This kit will not fix a broken transmission ("rounded dogs, bent forks"), but it WILL make the shift selector mechanism get the shift start where it's supposed to be - and on most bikes, them means quicker shift, slicker shifts and fewer missed shifts, including the "1-2" shift. |
$89.95 |
MAGAZINE ARTICLES:
RAM AIR, part deux - Motorcyclist magazine blows up pressurized airboxes for big power! December 1999 issue
emails
The bike runs great. It pulls hard, and has excellent top end. It does not even feel like same bike. I will try using the choke very little and see what happens. I would rather not mess with your recommend settings. I hope to spend some time with the bike this weekend to try the fine tuning. I did sync the carb also right before the jet kit, and set the float height to the factory setting according the book. 13mm. What do you mean by fine tuning? Thank you for helping. James
Marc Salvisberg <factory2@ix.netcom.com> wrote:If you want the bike to maybe idle with the choke on, you'll have to turn the fuel crew in.
Try a 1/4, and even more in.
You are balancing good running performance vs. "making the choke work". Your choice.
You haven't really done any tuning. We'd spend 1-3 hours on fine tuning.
You haven't mentioned how the bike ran?
M
james ward wrote:I have not tried any other settings. I had a dynojet kit in my other zx9r with the pilot 3.5 turns out. and it would start and run with no choke ever. Should I turn the pilot back in one half or a quarter turn?
Marc Salvisberg <factory2@ix.netcom.com> wrote:You richened up the idle mixture - The choke still thinks it needs to richen enough to work with the "too lean" stock pilot mixture.
The richer pilot circuit mixture + the choke mixture = too rich to "idle high".
You can either lean out the pilot circuit (so it's too lean again) and the choke will idle high, like it used to. Or, (like most everybody else) just start it, then, turn the choke off (as soon as possible) and keep the engine running by hand (which is usual).
I would sit there with the choke on, keeping the engine running > turn the choke off.
You won't hurt the engine by turning the choke off earlier than before;.
Just keep the engine running till it's warm enough to ride safely.
Remember, this is a carbureted bike - not a fuel injected vehicle, probably like your car.\
You didn't mention trying any other settings?
Did you?
Thanks -
Marc
james ward wrote:Hello.I just installed a factory 1.0 jet kit in my 1995 Kawasaki ZX-9R. I followed all instructions. I have done this before, and work on my own bikes all of the time. This time I'm having bad idle problems. The first night the bike started right up, smooth idle, great cruising, and mid, and top end. Power is excellent. But now every time I go to start the bike with choke on it will not idle. I have to keep reving it up until warm then it idles. It will puff out some black smoke also. carbs were stock before jet kit. Thank you for any help you can provide.James WardSettings are as follows.Needle third from topTwo washers above needleSupplied springs usedPilot 2.5 turns outStock 190 Kehin Main jetVance and Hines 4-1 header with ss2r pipeK&N filter. Its cleanFloat bowl vents are clean.Carbs have been cleaned with Pilot screws removed and circuit cleaned.Stock Ignition advancerNew wires, and new plugs.Bike has 20k Miles. Always runs pretty goodCompression is good Just checked.
-- Marc Salvisberg Factory Pro Dynamometer 800 869-0497 Factory Pro Tuning 415 491-5920 www.factorypro.com www.truehp.com www.cleanhp.com 179 Paul Drive San Rafael, CA 94903 "An Open Mind is Terrible Thing to waste" C. Grebsivlas
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-- Marc Salvisberg Factory Pro Dynamometer 800 869-0497 Factory Pro Tuning 415 491-5920 www.factorypro.com www.truehp.com www.cleanhp.com 179 Paul Drive San Rafael, CA 94903 "An Open Mind is Terrible Thing to waste" C. Grebsivlas
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