Kawasaki ZX-14, 06-07
Factory Pro Series K96

POWER KING for 07!

Superflare Billet Velocity Stacks with Mini-Liptical Radius

EVO Shift STAR for quicker shifting and virtually eliminate missed shifts

 

Billet Factory Pro design Velocity Stacks

 

stock photo - not actual zx14 stacks

tr_logo_white.gif (14715 bytes)
dealers!

Factory Pro Dyno Centers
 F-USA HP leaders!
Tuning to Best Power
The way we were, the way we are, the way we will be.
Because we're right.

VEL-K96-2525   $249.95
Midrange (and some topend) Stack Set


International buyers will be billed an additional $22 for shipping

Billet ZX14 Velocity Stacks
Patented Quick change, clampless high velocity design!


Also - we HAVE the TEKA 4usb Realtime FI box (the power commander replacement!) in stock for local tuning.

We chose to offer 2 different sets of lengths for the 14.

The "Midrange" stacks are my choice for any street and most track use.
The additional 4-5 HP across the 7000 to 9000 rpm range augments the relatively slight, 2 True HP gain at 10,000 rpm.  For street use, the midrange is "where it's at" and for track use, well, ask Ryan Schnitz or Brock Davidson if THEY bang it off the rev limit every shift (no....  ;-)

"HIGH RPM" Version stacks
However, for the guys with HP skewing, 4th gear wack, dealership level dynos, and new track guys who think that shifting at the rev limit is the way to go (it's not on a stock engined bike....), we were able to  make some "HIGH RPM" stacks.
They don't make as much midrange (though, they are still better than stock) - but they made an additional 5 True HP over stock at 10,000 rpm indicated, as compared to the +2 of the
MIDRANGE stack set.


Note:
Please! AFR dyno guys! Stop tuning stack equipped bikes "to an AFR" and then claiming that the stacks don't work - Tune the engine to Best Power and you might find out that they actually DO work....... Tuning "to an AFR" is what doesn't work.
(comments about my comment?)
......................

The stacks are well made and come in 15 mm (race) and 25 mm (street) lengths. They seal to the airbox better than the stock stacks. The straight part of these stacks that seals in the air box are rubber with aluminum bell mouths. The match to the throttle bodies and the aluminum bell mouths is perfect with no power robbing ridges. I purchased the street length stacks after testing because that is where I do most of my riding. If I was primarily a drag racer I would install the shorter 15 mm stacks because most of the benefit is in the 9,000 to 11,000 RPM range with the shorter stack length. After the first 100 feet you are in this range all the time anyway.

johns

 Midrange V Stack Test results

This ZX-14:
All stock, 2400 miles, stock air filter, stock exhaust system

GREEN
All stock bike, with stock exhaust

RED
Only change:
Final results, Factory Pro Superflare Billet V Stacks.
No FI retuning done

+4 hp at 4000
+3 at 5000
+3 at 6000
+5 at 7000
+5 at 8000
+3 at 9000
+2 at 10,000

Suggest using a Teka 4usb Realtime Fuel Injection Module for final tuning - Call 800 869-0497 to order a Teka 4 usb.


 

 

 Midrange V Stack Test results
Our testing was done with:
stock camshafts, stock pistons and stock valves and cylinder head and a stock exhaust system.


The above chart is TRUE HP - Not dynojet horsepower (if you were wondering)
To estimate DJHP, multiply True HP by 1.15 to 1.20.
That will give you about what a dj dyno or dynojet clone might give you, IF the rear tire isn't slipping.... and a 14's rear tire usually slips and loses power on a dynojet dyno.
That's what the smoke off the rear tire is -

HI RPM / Topend style
V Stack Test results

GREEN
The same, all stock bike, averaged HP over multiple tests

BLUE
Only change:
Final results, Factory Pro Superflare Billet V Stacks.
No FI retuning done

+2 hp at 4000
+2 at 5000
+2 at 6000
+3 at 7000
+4 at 8000
+3 at 9000
+4 to +5 at 10,000

Suggest using a Teka 4usb Realtime Fuel Injection Module for final tuning - Call 800 869-0497 to order a Teka 4 usb.

VEL-K96-1515   $249.95
Top end  (and some midrange) Stack Set


International buyers will be billed an additional $22 for shipping

 

HI RPM / Topend style V Stack Test results

Transmission Shift Improvement

SHFT-EVO-K96-KT
Shift STAR Improvement Kit

$199.95 USD


International buyers will be billed additional $18 for shipping

Factory Pro's famous SHIFT STAR kit

Marc's Choice.

Make shifting MUCH quicker and virtually eliminate missed shifts. The Shift STAR makes shifting even quicker and even easier than the below "Pro Kit".
Includes Factory Pro's exclusive Shift STAR, HD detent spring and Microbearinged Detent Arm and clutch cover gasket.

You must remove the clutch assembly to install. Needs 1/2" impact wrench and 30mm socket.
 
No engine case splitting required, though.

Thanks to Travis Fowler in Las Vegas for the use of his bike -  He's got the smoothest, quickest shifting 14 in the world!

Ignition Components

 
 
 

BMC Air Filters

 
  Will add ~1hp at high rpm when properly jetted  and will "clean up" low-end richness when fully warmed upon stock carbureted bike otherwise.
Suggest cleanable BMC air  filter system (avail. direct from Factory Pro) for more power - click here / there for more informatio

  


Shift STAR Installation pics ZX14
(Thanks to Travis Fowler)

NOTE!!
These are ROUGH and GENERAL and abbreviated clues - and NOT to be used without a genuine Kawasaki Service manual for proper assembly.

Tools, Partial list
5mm allen wrench
1/2" air or electric impact wrench
30mm  1/2" drive socket  ( 1 3/16" in a pinch)
external circlip pliers (small / medium size)
Pliers, needle nose and regular

 

Remove clutch cover.

Only a few drops of oil will come out.

Now, you can see the outer clutch plate, with the 5 clutch spring mounting screws (pink, today)

Remove the clutch spring bolts.

After removing the 5 clutch spring screws, gently pull away the outer plate.

Some clutch plates will probably stick to the outer, but that's ok.

This is a radial "Torrington" bearing on the "mushroom" shaped "clutch throwout button.

Note: There is a "thrust" washer still stuck on the inside of the outer clutch plate.

Remove the 30mm / 1 3/16" nut from the clutch shaft. Use a 1/2" air or electric impact wrench.

Remove the "Belleview"  washer and flat plate washer and the rest of the clutch plates (fiber and steel).

Here's a view of the clutch basket.

Hmmm...... just pull it out... Hey! It hits the cases and I can't!!

Here's where it hits - just below this screw hole.

Trick:

Insert a 4mm screw into this clutch collar - leave the head exposed.

Now, grab the head of the screw and pull the collar out -

Then, gently remove the bearing, too.

Now you have enough space to move the clutch basket to the left and that makes enough room for the big primary gear to clear the engine case.

Success!

Plenty of room to work with.

LAY A SHOP RAG AT THE BOTTOM OF THE AREA to prevent screws, arms, collars from falling into the crankcase.
(our mechanic is perfect and he doesn't have to because he never drops anything)

Now - go to the left side of the bike.......

Now, remove the 10mm headed bolt from the shift lever
(don't you hate it when they put the bolt in from the bottom and it can fall out when it's loose? Oh! Never happened to you? :-)

Then -

With circlip pliers, remove the shift shaft retaining circlip and plate washer and don't loose them.

Slide the shift shaft out.

Remove the detent arm pivot bolt.

(this bike had a Shift STAR kit previously installed, so we will just pretend that we are removing the stock grey shift star and "non-bearinged" detent arm....)

Here's the detent arm removed.

The stock shift spring probably has pink paint on it.

Remove the stock grey star. Use a 5mm allen wrench.

Stock grey shift star removed.

Install the new gold plated Factory Pro STAR.

Use a bit of loctite on the screw. 6-8 ftlbs torque.

Hand assemble the new Factory Pro Detent Arm and the new Factory Pro performance spring.

Make sure you re-use the stock spacer collar.

Ahh! All assembled and happy.

It takes a few minutes to get the detent arm lined up and tightened. Make sure you don't bind and bend the arm when installing.
It'll take some finagling and pliers and flat bladed screwdrivers

Use a drop of loctite type threadlocker on the screw.

Slide in the shift shaft.

Replace the shift shaft plate washer and circlip.

Replace the shift lever and bolt.

Check the shifting - between 1st and neutral and make sure that things look right and feel OK.

It's a Kawasaki so you can't shift to 2nd unless the bike is rolling.

Basket on - Make sure to rough align it with the oil pump gear (behind primary gear, lower right, 5 o'clock position)

.

Slide in the clutch shaft bearing and spacer collar (the one with the 4mm screw holes).

Wiggle the basket a bit and it will get "1/2" aligned and in somewhat... Don't force it.

The 14 has a "split" primary gear and you have 1/2 of it aligned.


Now, use something like a #3 Phillips screwdriver in the alignment hole to align the primary gears and the clutch basket will slide right in.

Slide the inner clutch hub in.

Install the:

1. Thick flat washer

2. Domed "Belleville" lock washer (domed inner surface to the outside, towards you)

3. 30mm nut to hold it all together.

30mm nut torque: 100 ft-lb or 135 nm (thanks Kyrre Høydahl, Norway for the torque specs)

4. Install "clutch pusher", Torrington bearing and thrust washer (still in the inner clutch hub?)

5. Replace clutch plates:
first, the skinny fiber plate, then...
the angled steel ring, then the flat steel ring.

6. then a steel, then alternate fiber and steel till the last fiber and it's outer tangs are lined up to the "short, alternate outer groove". See below picture.

Install the outer clutch hub plate.

Install the clutch springs and bolts.
(do NOT overtorque or you will break the screw post!!)
(6-8 ftlbs is correct)

Done!

(note: this is the original disassembly picture - Use hand tools to tighten up the cover screws - NOT an impact wrench!)

Project bike: Travis Fowler / Las Vegas

R&D Race Head Gasket
Done

R&D Megacycle Drop-in Intake Cam (uses stock valve springs)
Done

Remove TB Secondaries
Done

R&D and manufacture Shift STAR Kit
(done, see above to purchase)


Gold Shift STAR
 

Megacycle prototype Drop-in intake cam

Megacycle prototype Drop-in intake cam - the red is Redline Assembly lube

Megacycle prototype Drop-in intake cam
   


 

 

 


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Contact Factory Pro
M-F, 9am - 6pm, Pacific time, -7 or -8 GMT

800 869-0497
 USA and Canada

415 491-5920

fax 415 492-8803

parts information
 info@factorypro.com

EC997 dynamometer information
info@factorypro.com

Product Support /Tech SECTION
click here

 

Mailing / Shipping address:
Factory Pro
179 Paul Drive
San Rafael, CA 94903
USA

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Restart back at the HOME page and click on the red box in the top left to find the bike that you want parts for...
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