pn: VEL-S59-4545      $249.95

Superflare Billet V Stacks GSXR 600
01-03
(patented)

The EC997 dyno chart is in True HPtm scale.

To get dynojet HP, multiply True x 1.15 - to get Superflow HP, multiply x 1.18, to get Fuchs HP - Oh forget it! They all have the real HP number and then they inflate it so it reads higher on their dyno - expecting that they will sell more dynos if they make their dyno read higher than the other company's dyno. It so sad that some top 100 dealerships actually buy a dyno because it inflates HP more than another......
Me, being the marketing wizard that I am .... (not! :-) decided to start out telling the honest truth, years ago.
True HPtm is the actual amount of HP really delivered to the rear wheel.

It's not "dyno loading specific", it's not "apparent only on a dyno hp", it's not "only there under inertia loading" - It's real power, measured against a real, lifelike, "load" - as the bike experiences in the real world -

At least 10% of the dyno buying facilities in the USA have decided to go with honesty and real HP - using the EC997 Dyne systems as used at the best of tuning centers -
The Factory Pro Tuning Centers

You'll see them in F-USA - you'll see them as the winners of the biggest classes in WERA National Championships, you'll see them as multiple World Suzuki Cup Champions, you'll see them as the 2004 National USA Endurance Champions, too - They don't get fooled - they all use Factory Pro EC997 dyne systems for True HP.

Anyway.... the stacks.......
OK - the above dyno chart shows the power difference between a bike with stock exhaust and stock air filter, tuned to make best power with the TEKA SFI Programmer (no pc3!) and we changed just the stacks and retrimmed the fuel with the TEKA.
You can see on the 2 lower red and blue lines that we didn't change the mixture very much.

The original stock Suzuki "short" stacks have the same problem as the Graves stacks on the fi R6's - there's simply restricted airflow at high rpms to make optimal power at very high rpms - insufficient radius / flare. Interestingly, I think that they would only work well on a flow bench if you didn't duplicate the actual intake velocity and used low, typical flowbench velocities -

The results are typical for our patented v stacks - The Factory Pro stacks are shaped  better than stock, so they propagate and recover the intake wave more efficiently, as shown by the "meatier" upper midrange and make more power at redline, due to the improved flow rates at higher velocities.

Actually, as it turns out, the "short" stock Suzuki stacks, after the radius problems were worked out, were "too short".
They use a shorter stack to bias the high rpm power, with poor wave rates - We used better wave rates and then we could lengthen the intake tract length to get more midrange power. We ended up with better top (flow related) and better upper mid (wave rate).

Shifting improvements

SHFT-EVO-SUZ-70
S-70 "Mark 1" Detent Star 

$130
(new manufacture)

International buyers will be billed an additional $16 for shipping

$150
(stock appearing part)

International buyers will be billed an additional $16 for shipping

GSXR Shift STAR kit

The gsxr 01-03 600 can get the same benefits that the 06's gsxr's can get with the new Factory Pro Shift STAR kit!
The "Paddle Shifter" for your foot -
The 01 and 02 1000's (and 750's and 600's!) need help in shifting. Track tests report that 2nd gear had a repeatable ability to pop out into "neutral" under hard acceleration.
Aside from that, the late style gsxr shift action is very flat feeling and gives very little tactile feedback as to confidence that it's really in gear or not. I hate it when you shift and you can hear the shift mechanism sort of  lazily "kathwaka" into it's final gear location. I like a confident, proper "snick"!
They had it so close to "almost good"  in 99 - I'm not sure why they changed it for the "non-better".... Oh well - After redesigning and testing and redesigning and testing, and redesigning and testing...... I now see how easy it is to get it wrong, though.
We have a new detent "star" with a copyrighted profile (yep, the "science failed, so, it's artwork - so it's copyrighted) that includes a particular combination of compound arcs and radii that produces a shift action that makes it almost impossible to miss a shift ("almost" is the key word here!), especially 2nd gear. At least, if you miss 2nd, now, you will be REALLY surprised - cause it's now such a rare occurrence.
Downshifting confidence is 100% easier and better, also. Maybe that's just as important as not missing upshifts!
I'm happy with the "star" and couldn't possibly change it for the better and I figure that it will take Suzuki 2 years to copy it!

2 Versions:

1. New manufacture:
Beautifully machined on 8 Axis CNC machinery, machined from solid Cro-Mo steel bar stock, heat treated, Gold Zinc plated, a complex radii, beautiful part.
$130

2. Reworked "stock":
Same as above - except(!) finely machined on reworked on a built-up, stock Suzuki core.
This piece is virtually identical to the stock Suzuki part in "from outside" visible color, and, unless specifically looking for it, appears to be a stock part.
$150 with $25 core charge

Note:
The stock detent star seems to loosen up the bolt that holds it on, causing missed shifts - esp. 2nd gear. Your Suzuki dealer will probably warranty it (if possible) and retighten it. It's a perfect time to install our S70 Detent Star, which fits tighter and is less likely to loosen up again, like the stock star.

COV-SUZ-51-LH     $289.95 LH

COV-SUZ-51-RH    $99.95 RH

Billet Engine Covers

ask for 10% discount for set purchase!

These are THE COVERS.

So good - they are patented!
NOT a simple, "knocked off" copy machined from billet cover - these are the covers responsible for saving more engines from destruction and kept more racetracks cleaner than, perhaps, all other aftermarket "billet" covers combined!
For Race or Street use. Absolutely the strongest cover you can buy. Highest strength / weight ratio available! Maximum protection at ~1 pound of additional weight!
More cover thickness than stock on both RH and LH side covers.
Visible on LH and RH side - Can be show polished to a mirror finish!
Includes: Integral SLIDERS, Billet Covers, gaskets and replacement stainless steel allen screws.
SLIDERS available separately for replacement!

$695
base unit - accessories extra

Tune 1 bike, tune 100 bikes!

Make changes in under 30 seconds.

Realtime

Teka  "SFI"  Fuel Injection Tuner for Suzuki.
USA NATIONAL Championship Winning Performance!
2002 Hooters / Michael Barnes FUSA 750 National Champion / Full Spectrum Racing - 6 US track records!
Wide range with fine increments - perfect for late model FI Suzuki motorcycles.
Most reliable of all FI fueling tuning tools.
Does NOT lose maps or cause ignition scatter (more high rpm power - better low rpm power.
Teka allows the user to dial in Suzuki fuel injection systems. Adjusts low speed / idle (unlike other units, like power commanders) and also adjusts different ranges of throttle opening, up to and including full throttle. 
IDLE CIRCUIT: Make changes as bike is running, real time, unlike other FI adjuster boxes - absolutely saving time when adjusting the low speed mixture. Select a cylinder and make it richer or leaner - as the bike is idling. Just like adjusting fuel screws - except you don't get your hands dirty!  Makes idle adjustment a 3 minute joy instead of a 15 minute, vague, aggravation!
RUN CIRCUIT RANGE: Make changes as bike is running - on road or dyno. Teka extends the range, as compared to Yosh box, from max. 10 to max. 20 for those high hp applications and when you need more fuel, like our 2000 model gsxr750 that thrived on +5 at part throttle and +15 at Mid Throttle and -2 at Full Throttle. 
RUN CIRCUIT INCREMENTS:
Teka provides smaller throttle position increments, too. 1% to 10%, 11% to 25%,26% to 50%, 51% to 75% and 76% to 100% in proto Teka. Addresses Hayabusa off-idle glitches, where you need to richen up the "very small throttle opening" or just above that to address "hiccups".
Check the fueling on your local Low Inertia 4 Gas EC997 dyno, adjust the stock ECU for maximum power, set it and take your Teka Fuel Injection Programmer away with you.  That's good for 1-2 True HP over pc2 on a Hayabusa installation when tested under load on real dyno.

BMC air  filter system

True Rear Wheel Horsepowertm scale - difference between other scales.

FI-BMC-26804S
~$89.95
call to order!

BMC air  filter system

True Rear Wheel Horsepowertm scale - difference between other scales.

FIB-SUZ-26804R
$99.95
call to order!

Ignition Advance Kit

RTR-SUZ-37-04  $64.95

This advance kit really advances the ignition timing 4 degrees

This simple, bolt-on advance kit advances the timing 4 degrees. With stock engines with stock compression ratios, there is more power everywhere. Part throttle power is better - helping corner exit speeds. Improved in-town driveability and quicker warm up.
Installation instructions w/ large pics - click here

Power Commander Ignition Module Notes

The $350 Power Commander Ignition module "says" +/- "10", but it really only changes the ignition timing about +/-2 degrees (as of at least 10/2007).
According to a customer, dj says that ignition timing simply, doesn't affect power very much.
WRONG.

Testing on real load dyno, under load, multiple DJ Ignition Modules shows that DJ +10  to DJ -10 "DJ degrees" equals less than a 4 HP spread!
Now, come on! :-)  How could you change ignition timing as supposed "TWENTY DEGREES" and only affect the HP FOUR HP???

You can't change the ignition timing 20 degrees and only affect the power by 4 hp -
If you had "Best Power" ignition timing set and you retard or advance the timing a REAL 10 degrees, the bike world hardly run, losing 5 to 10 True HP  if you retarded it.
if you advanced it a real 10 degrees, you'd lose a bunch of power, too and also give fits of detonation.

Now - I'm still perplexed about the guy who posted that he gained 7 HP on his dynojet dyno with a "+5" setting on his DJ Ign Module!  - (I'll reserve comments about poor test routines.....1 REAL degree = 5 hp??? <roll eyes emoticon>) and also about the ignition map that I got from a DJ sponsored Yamaha Race team that showed +1 and +2 and -1's in their "official" map! Lessee? They changed the ignition timing a miniscule  real .2 degrees and they could see that hp change????? Fantasy? Ubet.

A significant ignition timing change that power can be measured would MAYBE be a real 1 degree - but you can only measure the HP change if the fuel mixture is absolutely PERFECT for Best power (NOT to misleading dealership level "AFR tuning") already -

 Normally, a REAL 2 degrees ignition timing change will change the power (on a Perfectly fueled engine) by about 1%.

(example 100 True HP > 101 True HP if a "good direction change" OR 99 True HP if it was "the wrong direction change").

So - the only reason to run a DJ Ignition Module is to use a DJ Quickshifter (until the TEKA 4 QS upgrade is released)
 the DJ Ignition function is essentially $350 useless cost.

Spark Plugs,
Denso

xxxETR-U - Standard replacement plug from the largest supplier of electronic components to the MC industry in the world.

~$3.00

xxxETR-ZU - Premium, Platinum, U Groove spark plug.
It is recommended to start a tuning session with new spark plugs.

~$10.00

Denso (ND, Nippon Denso) is the largest OEM supplier for autos and motorcycles of electrical components in the world. Sometimes, people forget that Denso makes pretty darn good spark plugs, too! Wide heat range properties discourage plug fouling at low speed AND overheating at high speed.
We have been using Denso spark plugs in our AMA Supersport bikes since Denso was Nippon Denso and ND. We have found that some standard, <$10, off the shelf, Denso spark plugs work as well as $125 special spark plugs - on a professional roadrace level!
Codes:
X = 12mm thread w/ 18mm hex
27 = Heat range. (Hint - it is ~3x NGK #. I.E. an "9" heat range in NGK)
E = 3/4" reach
P = Projected tip type plug or
T = Dual ground electrodes
R = Resister type internal construction
Z = Thin platinum center electrode w/ tapered ground (side) electrode
U = "U Groove" side electrode for better spark and finally..
9 = is "pregapped" at .9mm (You should check any "pregapped" plug before you install it..)