Teka SFI Suzuki Fuel Injection Adjuster
Tune small throttle openings first. The smaller openings affect the larger openings.
The TEKA SFI is a 8 and 16 bit ecu tuning, REALTIME device - as you change
the arrows rich or lean, the TEKA changes the values and FI pulse width as the engine
That is similar to the RC51 programmer box that Honda has and there is no need to turn the engine off and on to program it, (like the Yosh "421" box.
When you are changing 10% throttle, the mixture is actually changing AS YOU PUSH THE ARROW KEYS. That's how you can get the on/off throttle at high rpm / no load perfectly smooth. You just change the mixture as the engine is at high rpm / no load (as in entering a corner on a racetrack) and change the mixture and work the throttle slightly positive/neutral till it becomes "silky".
The only "Realtime" exception is "Idle" with "ALL" cylinders selected - that is the only setting that programs 1 by 1, each cylinder, when you push "ENTER". However, if you select a single cylinder, it changes in realtime.
TEKA SFI will remember the last programmed settings
that you programmed with.
When you are modifying a new bike, it's required to set all the ECU's values to "zero" with the SFI to make sure that the ECU is all stock and the TEKA is reading "zero".
The TEKA will always store the last programmed values - regardless of which bike it was.
It's not currently possible to "read" the ECU to get the values that the ECU is programmed at.
TEKA remembers the last settings you did, so, you can power
up the TEKA and read what you did to this bike last (as stored in the Teka SFI).
Just make sure that you aren't looking at the bike you did previously!!
Generally, when you use the Teka SFI on one bike, the Teka SFI stored settings will be correct.
If you are using the TEKA SFI on multiple bikes, you would log the SFI settings on paper, OR do as I do, at racetracks - just grab a marking pen and jot the settings on the bike, itself.
Even if you write the SFI settings in plain sight (I do), it won't really be giving anything away - as you'll find that each bike will require somewhat different settings to work optimally - regardless of dj marketing scheme "download the perfect map off the internet" fable.
Bike ignition "off".
Locate the Suzuki Access Port connector. Usually on the upper, rear, LEFT hand side of the bike, behind the frame side panel, just below the seat On later gsxr's, it's on the right side rear of the battery, somewhat buried - It's always "capped" when stock.
Remove the connector cover.
Connect the TEKA tool to the Suzuki connector.
Turn on ignition and make sure that the Engine Stop switch is set in "Run" position.
TEKA graphics display should be activated and show "Factory Pro" splash screen, indicating that it is powered up and ready. If the TEKA display remains unresponsive, cycle the "Engine Stop" switch to wake it up.
Zeroing the stock ECU
Select "IDLE ADJ" with up/down arrow keys.
Up/down arrow key to highlight "ALL".
RH/LH arrow to make numeric value "0".
Select "RUN ADJ".
Up/down arrow to 10%.
RH/LH arrow to "0".
Now, select each throttle position under "RUN ADJ" and repeat procedure to zero out the Suzuki ECU.
Warm up bike.
Set idle speed as low as possible.
On the TEKA, select "IDLE ADJUST" with the UP or DOWN arrows.
After selecting "IDLE ADJUST", hit "Enter", then down arrow to select "ALL". That will adjust all cylinders to an equal FI setting. Set to "0" with the right or left arrows.
Press "Enter" on the TEKA. All cylinders will be set to the middle value, as it is supposed to be, to start.
Now, select "Idle Adjust" again, if necessary, select "ALL", then use the RH arrow to change value to +20, then hit enter. As it is programming, you might hear each cylinder change sound as it completes programming.
Adjust for best idle quality/highest rpm.
Often, the Suzuki 600, 750 and 1000's end up from TEKA +10 to +40
Run Adjust: 10% throttle range (affects high rpm/part throttle as in entering a tight corner)
With engine fully warmed, but coolant temp around
180f/82c - 190f/87c, select "RUN ADJ", hit "Enter", then use up/down arrow keys
to highlight the 10% throttle range, hit "Enter" and use RH/LH arrow keys to
bring to "0". Hit "Enter".
Do NOT let coolant temp exceed 200f / 93c - The ECU will try to compensate and throw the mixture off when it "corrects for coolant temp. when running.
With the bike in neutral, bring the rpm up to an rpm that you want to optimize (as in 9k for a racebike inline 4 cylinder or 5,000 to 7,000 rpm for a streetbike) and RH/LH arrow key to make the bike run smoothest at desired rpm/no load.
It can help to "lock" your thumb across the grip "flange" and the throttle housing. When the mixture is better, the rpm will increase - along with getting smoother. Ha! Almost like tuning slide carbs!
It wouldn't hurt to go back to the idle settings at the end, to make sure that the optimum idle settings haven't changed, as the 0-10% and idle are somewhat interrelated.
Tuning with no load may seem odd, but, when entering a corner at high rpm / neutral and part throttle, that's exactly what you are doing - no load / high rpm.
On the EC997
Low Inertia dyno, put the bike in top gear and use the Realtime Engine
Smoothness Display to adjust for best engine smoothness.
Do NOT use an O2 sensor to guess at A/F ratios - they are wrong and will mislead. They are only for very rough adjustments - not optimal.
Run Adjust: 25% and 50% and 75% throttle range
With engine fully warmed, but coolant temp around 180f/82c - 190f/87c, select "RUN ADJ" with up/down arrow, hit "Enter", then use up/down arrow keys to highlight the 25% throttle range, hit "Enter" and use RH/LH arrow keys to bring to "0".
When on a 4 Gas EGA EC997 dyno, use 5%-5.5% as a target CO% to "rough in" mixture. Then test, using EC997 Realtime HP display. Tune for best power at 25% throttle.
When test riding, bring bike up to 5k in first gear. Hold it there.
Then, "snap" the throttle to 25% open and note the engine response. Add +20 and try it again. Keep trying, in increments of 20, either + or -, until you get the best "snap" response. When you reach that point, it's time to continue on to the 50% range, then the 75% range.
Incidentally, it's not required to press "Enter" until you want to leave a particular throttle range and change throttle ranges. The TEKA does realtime mixture changes, except when in "IDLE ADJ" and have "ALL" selected.
All you need to do, when doing 10%, 25%, 75% and 100% throttle is to use the RH/LH arrows to richen or lean the mixture. Don't bother hitting "Enter" until you want to exit and tune a different throttle position - the arrow keys change the mixture when you change them, in realtime. If you do hit "Enter", no problem, though.
Run Adjust: 100% throttle
Leave the TEKA connected to the bike when testing or take it off - makes no difference.
Select 100% throttle, set at "0".
Test ride or dyno.
Add +20, test ride or dyno.
If +20 is better at full throttle/high rpm than 0%, try +40, and so on.
If +20 is worse at full throttle/high rpm, try leaning out the mixture, in steps of 20.
This is too easy........
It's not unrealistic to end up
at -60 after you've done the smaller throttle positions.
Contrast Setting for view screen
To adjust contrast, power up the unit.
Hold down Left Arrow button.
Wait for initial splash screen to scroll away.
Keep holding down Left arrow key.
After a while, you'll see the contrast begin to change (fairly slowly).
Once in "adj. contrast" mode, you can adjust contrast with RH and LH buttons to suit your screen
The so-called "16 bit" ECU's generally used increments of "20" to make significant fuel changes.
The "32 bit" ECU's generally use "5" as a significant increment.
What I call "significant change" is roughly he amount of fuel to equal a main jet change.
It's not too important to actually know if you have a 16 or 32 bit ECU - if 5 doesn't change it enough, use a larger value. That's what you would do if I didn't tell you anything, anyway!
SV650/1000 "32 bit" ECU's
Not 100% sure why only the SV's do this (and not the other "32 bit" ECU's), but SV's hiccup when downloading.
There are some reasons as to why - it has to do with RAM and Flash memory addressing.
Everything still works peachy (translate:"fine") and all programming is indeed, still written properly.
Zero on the Teka SFI vs. Zero / Suzuki
default, as delivered, settings.
If you set the TEKA SFI to "zero" and program at all the throttle positions and idle - you will have reset the ECU back to 100% all stock, "in the middle" fuel mapping.
If you were learning how to tune, and got confused, you can always spend 30 seconds and start all over again with original Suzuki zero settings.
"% of change"
Regardless of what might be inferred from the TEKA SFI display, don't look at the changes as percentages from the zero setting and then percentage changes from the percentage amount already changed.
The so-called "percentage change" should be looked at as an "offset" from the zero point.
In this case, if you don't understand what I just wrote, that's good! Carry on!
ECU Losing maps if battery is disconnected
Doesn't happen. The mapping is flashed into nonvolatile memory.
I have, in thousands Suzuki tunes, found a single TL1000s that would not hold a map more than 2-3 hours. Coincidentally, it had always run poorly, since 1998. We fixed it in 2004 by putting on another 1998 ECU (lest you think that that was why Suzuki had all those ECU recalls in that bike) in 1998.
I think that the rumor that the ECU would reset itself if you disconnected the battery was started with the real concept that automotive ECU's have multiple memory locations, one of which is volatile, "learned" memory that is cleared when power is disconnected for 15 minutes, or so.
The other spreaders of that rumor were trying to sell power commanders.
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