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High
pressure / Hi temp. conditions
So...
Here we are at
Pikes Peak Raceway - it's 106f hot - hot and the barometer reads 24.66 inches (sea level
barometer near San Francisco is ~30.00").
Well - Colorado Springs IS at ~5000 ft elevation!
FYI - the barometer at the
top of Pikes Peak is a pretty oxygen starved 14 - 15 inches.
Hey - that's ~ 1 inch per 1000 feet! Remember that tidbit!
So - there's not many molecules in each handful of air up here - and even though
you are ramming just as many "handfuls" of air through the radiator">
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Radiator cap
High
pressure / Hi temp. conditions
So...
Here we are at
Pikes Peak Raceway - it's 106f hot - hot and the barometer reads 24.66 inches (sea level
barometer near San Francisco is ~30.00").
Well - Colorado Springs IS at ~5000 ft elevation!
FYI - the barometer at the
top of Pikes Peak is a pretty oxygen starved 14 - 15 inches.
Hey - that's ~ 1 inch per 1000 feet! Remember that tidbit!
So - there's not many molecules in each handful of air up here - and even though
you are ramming just as many "handfuls" of air through the radiator, the air,
because there's fewer molecules per handful, so it simply can't pick up the as
much of the transferred engine heat from the radiator.
The temperature production/radiation ratio will equalize and stabilize at a
higher than usual coolant temp. - like 220f to 230f on the track and usually -
250f when you shut off the engine.
So.....
Your stock radiator cap will only hold back 14.7. An aftermarket cap that you
can find in stock in Colorado Springs will be 16 psi. The difference between
14.7 psi and 16 psi pop-off pressure is miniscule, so, don't expect the 16 psi
cap to help much in retaining the high pressure of the 220f to 230f to 250f
coolant!
BUT!
You CAN make a higher pressure cap!
(Yep! I'm giving away a BIG secret that we found out in 1994!)
1. Buy a "Stant"
brand, #11233 cap. It has a BROWN spring in it that is just shy of 1'/25.4mm
diameter.
Actual measurement was .965"/24.46mm on the one that I'm measuring right
now. It's the only "Stant" radiator cap spring that is brown AND
~1"/25.4mm diameter (if you forget the STANT part number and have to
measure every Stant cap on the rack). It's almost
always in stock in automotive supply stores.
2. Take the STANT cap. Get pliers, diagonal cutters, needle nose and attack the
STANT cap. You WILL be amazed at how some parts can be designed to be assembled
quickly and easily and are nearly impossible to have accidentally come apart.
Anyway - get the brown spring out.
3. Take your stock cap. Now take the brown spring and spread the
"tail" of the spring by hand, just enough to work it around the spring
retainer on the stock cap. You'll have to lever the end tail over the cup
to avoid damaging the rubber gasket.
Presto!
A, can
find the parts even in Alaska, 21 to 25 psi cap - just like all them car guys
use!
And it looks stock!
Now - It won't make
the bike run cooler, but it WILL retain the coolant in the cooling system and
run as cool as it possibly can with a stock cooling system. It's WAY better than
blowing out all your coolant during a race and running even hotter!
Funny thing is - when you don't have any
coolant - most bikes don't read too high coolant temp - because there isn't any
coolant to read the temperature of! Scary!!!!!
As always - YOU are
responsible for whatever you do with this information!
We ARE NOT responsible - use this information wisely - and if you have ANY
questions - ASK a reputable and experienced local person!
You - and ONLY you are responsible for your own actions.
Marc