Robert Jensen, 2006 - on the way to another win!
Robert uses his own Factory Pro EC997 Dyne System with Hi Speed 4 gas EGA to develop maximum power and best smoothness -
That's what it takes to be the #1 privateer.

 Suzuki gsxr750

08-10

The FP Billet SUPERFLARE stacks ROCK!

The Shift STAR kit makes shifting silk SWEET!

The FP Ignition Advance kit SMOKES a +/- 2 degree (it's NOT +/- "10" degrees) PC Ignition Module (as our plate really DOES advance the timing 4 degrees!

The TEKA SFI Fuel Injection tool will adjust your FI.

Equipping your 750 with the 3 items and tuning the stock FI with the Teka SFI on a Factory Pro EC997 dyne system provides enough power to win an AFM roadrace!

Factory Pro's
Teka SFI
Suzuki FI programming tool

Billet Superflare Velocity Stacks (patented FP quick change design)

gsxr750 Factory Pro
Billet Superflaretm Velocity Stacks

The combination of specific lengths, shapes and cross sectional values is what makes it all work. We tested from 25mm to 80mm lengths on the 08-10 750 in pairs in 5 and 10mm increments on an EC997 dyno. The interesting thing is that even a 10mm change in length on just 2 of the stacks ruined the perfectly smooth shape of the curve - and helped no single part of the rpm band.
Interesting.
I used to think, from what I had read about "velocity stacks", that one could grab a flow bench and a calculator and whip out a perfect set of stacks.
 I was wrong to think that - now we know.

But that's all good. I know that you simply have to try to make Best Power. It's the same with "tuning to an af ratio". We tried that and it usually failed in real world proof -  we tune to Best Power now. 

Billet Superflare tm Velocity Stacks
(patent issued 10/2007 quick change mount system)\

If one dyno tunes to Best Power, results may be a bit better. If dyno tuned "to an AF ratio" instead of Best Power, your will get less of a power improvement.
 

The power range, as is becoming a trademark of Factory Pro's EC997 dyno R&D based procedures, features a much stronger upper midrange. At 6,000, 7,000, 8,000, (same hp at 9,000) 10,000, 11,000 and 12,000 rpms, we gained  2 - 3 - 4 True HP.
c9,000 rpm, where it's the same).

As is becoming more and more commonly known, this power may or may not show up on a common dealership level dyno - even though the rider feels it and you can see it on a proper load dyno, like the EC997 dyno. It's not a stack problem, it's a dealership level dyno accuracy problem. It's the reason why F-USA / ASRA uses the EC997 dyno to measure True HP and no longer uses a dealership level dyno for race power testing. The EC997 dyno is the same dyno that National #1 Vesrah Racing, Suzuki NZ, Robert Jensen and AMA race winning Jordan Racing uses.

Hey - Notice how many successful privateer teams use an EC997 dyno?

The new quickchange patented Factory Pro Billet stacks will launch your new Suz into "Best in Class" True HP range - even with a stock exhaust!! Hmmm.... Well, since Suzuki is the only one making a high hp 750.... let's just say that you will have  a much quicker Suzuki 750! 

pn:  VEL-S51-4040
V stack set / 08-09-10 gsxr750
Factory Pro Tuning Centers can purchase special "Tuner's Kits".

$289.95

No fuel injection adjustments were done in these 750 tests.
 

RED is Stacks, comp exhaust  and K&N >>>

Marc Salvisberg 415 491 5920  marc@factorypro.com

David T. - that's the inner stacks and their effect  >

Ignition Advance Plate kit

Factory Pro Ignition Advance Plate

Pretty easy to install -

Adding this +4 plate will generally perk up the mighty 750 to the tune of 1-3 more True HP when measured under full load (that's the proper way to measure real world power)
Part throttle power (power out of a corner) is also better. If one installs a pc or ems and electronically adds +4, the ignition "scatter" problems often negate the benefit of the more proper timing.

06-07 Verified fitment

Below: A different bike than above, RTR-SUZ-37-04 Ignition Advance on a stock engine with
 pipe and Factory Pro Superflare Velocity stacks
 

This advance kit really advances the ignition timing 4 degrees

This simple, bolt-on advance kit advances the timing 4 degrees. With stock engines with stock compression ratios, there is more power everywhere. Part throttle power is better - helping corner exit speeds. Improved in-town driveability and quicker warm up.
Installation instructions w/ large pics - click here

Power Commander Ignition Module Notes

In my experience, the $350 Power Commander Ignition module "says" +/- "10", but it really only seems to change the ignition timing about +/-2-3 degrees (as of at least 02/09).  This was backed up by a DJ importer's experience.
According to a customer, dj told him  that ignition timing, doesn't affect power very much.
That's just wrong.
Factory Pro has over 30 years of research and development in high accuracy tuning in general and 20 years in producing Ignition Advancers (which REALLY DO change the ignition timing!)  and we've been producing dynamometers that read to .1 and .2 HP increments.

Testing on real load dyno, under realistic load, multiple DJ Ignition Modules on 600's and 1000's show that DJ +10  to DJ -10 "DJ degrees" equals aromd a 1% to 2% HP spread.
How could you change ignition timing a supposed "TWENTY DEGREES" and only affect the HP by 1% to 2%????

You can't change the ignition timing 20 degrees and only affect the power by a couple percent -  That's an obvious fact.
If you had "Best Power" ignition timing set and you retard or advance the timing a REAL 10 degrees, the bike world hardly run, losing around 10% - 20% True HP  if you retarded it.
if you advanced it a real 10 degrees, you'd lose a bunch of power, too and also, likely, give it fits of detonation.

Now - I'm still perplexed about the guy who posted that he gained 7 HP on his dynojet dyno with a "+5" setting on his DJ Ign Module!  - .5 DJ degrees /  about 1 REAL degree = 5 hp? and also perplexed about the ignition map that I got from a DJ sponsored Race team that showed +1 and +2 and -1's in their "official"  map! Lessee? They changed the ignition timing a miniscule  real .2 degree and they could see that hp change?
The 06 R6 that we were working on? It actually wanted more than 10 "dynojet degrees" in quite a few every part throttle positions for Best Power settings and all of the full throttle settings ended up at +5 to +10 "dynojet degrees". Compare that to the zero settings at full throttle that were supplied and the +1, +2 an +3 "dj degree" settings that were supplied.

A significant ignition timing change, that power can be measured would MAYBE be a real 1 degree - but you can only measure the HP change if the fuel mixture is absolutely PERFECT for Best power (NOT to misleading dealership level "AFR tuning") already -

 Normally, a REAL 2 degrees ignition timing change will change the power (on a Perfectly fueled engine) by about 1%.

(example 100 True HP > 101 True HP if a "good direction change" OR 99 True HP if it was "the wrong 2 deg direction change").

So - the only reason to run a DJ Ignition Module is to use a DJ Quickshifter (until the TEKA 4 QS upgrade is released)
 the DJ Ignition function is, otherwise, essentially $350 useless cost.

When tuning on and EC997 dyno, (which has the capability of measuring .1 to .2 HP changes), essentially, there are only a couple of DJ Ign Module settings:
Zero
+ or - 5 Dynojet degrees or
+ or 1 10 Dynojet degrees
and maybe "7" if "5" and "10" make the same power
Don't expect huge HP changes - as, as described above, you'll see 1 or 2 hp at best (at least on a real dyno)

So - what does that tell you?
That you need to do testing on a high quality dyne system, like the Factory Pro EC997 .
Then, you too, can learn all these "unpopular" facts!
Like inertia HP isn't real HP in the real world, dj hp numbers are bogus, tuning to an AFR for best performance is a myth....
Join Jordan Racing and Vesrah Racing and Suzuki NZ -

(I'm sure that the guy who got "7 DJHP" with a real 1 degree (aka: 5 Dynojet degrees)  isn't my buddy right about now, though....)
 

Best regards - Marc
 

Fuel Injection Tuning, Teka SFI (Suzuki Fuel Injection Tool)

The TEKA line of fuel injection products features the
Teka SFI 2

$695
base unit - accessories extra

Teka SFI
It's the Factory pro designed tool specifically designed to reprogram the stock Suzuki ECU / computer.

As compared to a power commander, Major features are virtually 100% reliability, as the reliability is the same as the stock ECU and there is no permanently mounted add-on box to fail and changes take 30 seconds and NO laptop.

Realtime tuning, no maps to lose, no problems with RF interference, no computer required to tune, no instant 1% to 2% hp loss w/ zero map, Easy to tune at the track on the pit wall, takes only about 20 seconds to make changes, easy to change during a 600 mile service, easy to tune for those new pipes your parts dept. just sold, no waiting in line for someone to non-optimally "tune to an a/f ratio", fits in your back pocket, digital accuracy, and do one, a 100 or a 1000 bikes.

Team Vesrah, Suzuki Cup World Champion Robert Jensen, Hooters Racing and many more have and use the TEKA SFi.
In fact, 5 WERA National Championships and one World Championship were won using the TEKA SFi.

In a championship race, even one power commander failure can mean winning the overall and finishing second in a years worth of work - 

Verified working 100% on the 2008 gsxr750

Tuning plug is located behind the battery, about 12", under the subframe, and under the charcoal canister, right hand side. Must remove the right side frame cover (below the seat)

Remove the charcoal canister and it's about 2" forward of it.

Tiny!
Teka MMT Module
EZ tune MMT (adj. memory module) Power Tube

1 MMT module + shipping

1 MM module + domestic USA shipping $243.95 1 MM module + International shipping $261.95

Additional notes for seller

After tuning with a Teka SFI 2,
you can use this optional module to fine fine adjust fueling with a screwdriver adjustable rotary switch.

MMT plugs right in to the bikes tuning port (same as the SFI).

If tuning with the SFI 2 / MMT combination:
The MMT is plugged into the bike, the SFI 2 is plugged into the MMT and all tuning settings from the SFI 2 are stored in the MMT and automatically transferred to the bike.
After SFI tuning, the SFI is removed and the MMT is left on the bike.
Then, for any fine tuning or adjusting after you maybe change air filters or similar or high altitude or a lot of freeway riding, you can just tweak the MMT Power Select Switch to a different number.
"5" = "as tuned with the SFI 2
"6" to "9" = incrementally richer
"4" to "1" = incrementally richer
"0" = "All zero ECU settings

If tuning with the MMT only (without custom SFI tuning):
If just installing an MMT without SFI custom  retuning, just installing the MMT will allow you to adjust, globally, incrementally richer or leaner with the Power Select rotary switch.

If you first install an MMT and decide the have it custom tuned with the SFI 2,  no problem.
Just plug the SFI 2 into the MMT's Tuning port and tune that perfect map.

Then, you still have the ability to "trim" map for conditions with the Power Select Switch - and you even have, by setting it at "0", to recheck how the "zero" map was in comparison to your "SFI Tuned Map". 

EZ install - all stock connectors, no splicing.
  

Factory Pro's famous Shift STAR kits

Shift STAR Kits

Note:
The stock detent star seems to loosen up the bolt that holds it on, causing missed shifts - esp. 2nd gear. Your Suzuki dealer will probably warranty it (if possible) and retighten it. It's a perfect time to install our S70 Detent Star, which fits tighter and is less likely to loosen up again, like the stock star.

Daniel Garza wrote:

DAM!!!!!  my hats off to the people who did the R&D on the star! Man it shifts awesome.  Billy said my stock piece was already loose so it worked out great.  he says hi back at you.  anyways great product

 

thanx  -  danny

Evo Shift STAR Kit

The "Paddle Shifter" for your foot -
The Suzukis (and ZX10's, zx6's, cbr600rr's, and the Yamaha's) need help in shifting.
Specifically, the late style gsxr shift action is very flat feeling and gives very little tactile feedback as to confidence that it's really in gear or not. I hate it when you shift and you can hear the shift mechanism sort of  lazily "kathwaka" into it's "maybe" final gear location. I like a confident, proper "snick"!
They had it so close to "almost good"  in 99 - I'm not sure why they changed it for the "non-better".... Oh well - After redesigning and testing and redesigning and testing, and redesigning and testing...... I now see how easy it is to get it wrong, though.
We have a new detent "star" with a copyrighted profile (yep, the "science failed, so, it's artwork - so it's copyrighted) that includes a peculiar combination of compound arcs and radii that produces a shift action that makes it almost impossible to miss a shift ("almost" is the key word here!), especially 2nd gear in upshifts and all the downshifts - At least, if you miss 2nd, now, you will be REALLY surprised - cause it's now such a rare occurrence.
Downshifting confidence is 100% easier and better - just as important as not missing upshifts.

Beautifully machined on 8 Axis CNC machinery, machined from solid Cro Mo steel bar stock, heat treated, Gold Zinc plated, a complex radii, beautiful part. $130/no core charge.