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part number /
description
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Description
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SHFT-EVO-H21-KT
$199.95
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Imagine
Last lap, last corner, 110 mph, two wheel drift... passing on the outside,
bike carefully controlled by just the subtlest of weight transfer and
just a "fingers touch" on the throttle... you run out of rpm and need
to upshift to complete the pass.... you need to shift.... it's ok....
a tap and you are in the 4th, still in a drift....... you keep slightly
pulling... around.... slowly past....
you win.
EVO-7 Detent
Star Kit!
Includes Factory's AWESOME Detent Star - Totally changes
the rough shifting the Hondas are known for into the sweetest shifting
bike - The one you've always wanted!
Includes: Factory Pro designed, refined and manufactured DETENT STAR,
Factory Pro Microbearing Detent Arm, heavy duty detent spring and gasket.
Makes shifting quicker and more positive - "virtually" eliminating those
nasty missed shifts. The stronger detent spring rotates the shift drum
quicker, so the gears are more likely to engage under quick shift conditions
- and "lazy" ones, too -
The Factory Pro Microbearing removes friction for the quickest shifting.
The closest to a "paddle shifter" for a motorcycle that you will ever
find!!
As a professional engine builder (but less and less these days,
marc), I've done most everything you can do to a set of gears, and
shafts.
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A great (read as 5 to 10
hours of labor) gearbox job generally
includes:
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Shimming to minimize lateral
play on the gears. (to builder's judgment)
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Shimming to move each fixed
gear closer to it's sliding mate (but not too close) (to
builder's judgment)
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Shimming shafts to move the
assembly closer to an optimum position. (to builder's
judgment)
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Using a surface grinder to
make your own custom thickness shims.
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Making sure that you place
the "rounded" side of the circlips against any shim or gear
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Checking and adjusting shift
mechanism "fingers" on the shift star "pins". (to builder's
judgment)
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Checking, replacing gears
with worn engagement dogs and slots - or undercutting worn
engagement dogs.
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I tend to try to use as
little angle on the undercut, as the more undercut
angle, the more you have to let off the power to get the
gears to separate - important when not using a
"quickshifter" or "air shifter".
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Deburring of most gears, most
shafts, the shift drum and the shift forks
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A commercial facility,
such as Supertech, owned by the iconic Dennis Zickrick,
in Colorado, does metal finishing and low friction
coatings.
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I don't recommend
cryogenically treating powdered metal gears, like
most Japanese type gears are - I don't feel it's a good use
of the process. I know that I'll get some flack on that. I'm
not saying that "cryo" is bad, as I do use it at times for
pistons, springs, knives, unfinished gun barrels...
just not powdered metal gears or large
finished machined castings.
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Additionally, separate from
the gears and shafts, there's the shift mechanism (shift
shaft, selector device, shift fingers,
detent arm and spring, detent star)
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Checking straightness of
shift shaft (sometimes they get bent on the left, shift
linkage / rear set side)
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Polishing sliding parts in
the shift mechanism (to decrease friction of shift drum
rotation - and "quicker is better")
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Reducing friction of the
detent arm (arm needs a bearing - which we make
as a model requires and "quicker
is better")
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optimizing detent arm spring
pressure (if the spring pressure should be changed, we make
- and "quicker is better")
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optimizing detent ramps (if
the ramps aren't right, we make replacement "stars" - making
it "quicker")
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Adding
an EVO Shift STAR kit -
In general, if the gearbox is setup "alright" (I would say
that most stock, original, undamaged
transmissiona are "alright"), that
just adding the EVO Shift STAR kit is going
to be 80% to 90%
of what is theoretically possible in improving shifting
quickness, reducing missed shifts, decreasing rider effort and
protecting the shift forks and gear
engagement dogs from damage caused by missed shifts.
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How do you know that a
transmission is shifting quicker and more reliably?
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You can feel it when
riding.
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Even when hand
shifting on the bench, it's easier to get out of gear
and "snicks" into gear, rather than "clunks" into gear
(yes, most Kaws won't shift into 2nd unless the output
shaft is spinning :-)
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You notice that you only
have time to slightly "twitch" the throttle off a teeny bit
between shifts and hardly have time to pull the clutch lever
even a little before the bike's already in the next gear.
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You "try" to miss a shift
on bench or riding and almost can't.
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Your "quickshifter"
equipped bike shifts clunkily after an EVO Shift STAR kit
install and you have to decrease "shift kill time" by 15 to
20ms to accommodate the EVO STAR's quicker shifting.
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That 15 to 20ms is
now converted to "engine power" time, rather than
"engine kill" time. That will improve power delivery
time on a racetrack and at the drags.
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Funny story - an AMA
team called up and said the bike's shifted awfully
clunky after the Shift STAR - I was mystified and in
talking, we couldn't figure out why the riders claimed
the clunkiness - as in the pits, it was def. quicker -
and didn't even think to ask about whether they were
using a quickshifter.
They called up later and said that they figured out that
the "quickshifter" was now killing the power too long
and it was perfect when they decreased the shift kill
time.
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BTW - for
roadracing, a perfect QS system will have several
factors to program. Should still be pretty easy to
sort out - and there's nothing commercially
available as or Feb 2009, and that includes the guy
who supposedly built his own Suzuki ecu, (well, he
did make the box at least - the ECU seemed to be a
repackaged EFI Technologies ECU according to the
software) on the market that's "right" for
roadracing, though most all are are fine for drag
racing and "alright" for roadracing.
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The one and only..
AIRBOX PLUS KIT
"APK Kit"
$189.95
CRB-H21-2.1-APK
Most Power

A stock, restricted camshaft model to unrestricted
cams, +4 Ignition Advance, AirBox PLUS KIT and competition exhaust
HP figures are
True Rear Wheel HP Scale
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This is the largest selling CBR900RR
kit!
Adds up to 3-4
True Rear Wheel HP at high rpm over
a properly jetted bike. (over a standard C-10 carb recal kit)
A must with ported heads or aftermarket cams. Allows more air at 7.5k+
rpm.
Replace the restrictive stock/aftermarket air filter AND KEEP the stock
airbox exterior.
Perfect for Germany and other areas that do not allow airbox removal.
Produce Best Power - THROUGH
all rpm's as compared with standard carb tuning.
Unmatched Top-end Power.
Makes more HP and COSTS LESS than other non pressurized airbox kit combinations.
Compare to BMC or K&N replacement filter and carb kit? Costs less and
makes more power!
Add the RTR-HON-8-04 for very improved part throttle power, with the
APK Kit. Wheelies better (at least until you get the clutch to slip!)
Requires internal airbox
modification. Click here.
Available For
1993-1999 CBR900RR only.
When used with restricted
camshafts, as in CA, France, Switzerland and others - use 2-3 sizes
smaller main jets.
Ask D and D, Hindle,
Kerker, M4, Mick Hone Motorcycles, Two Brothers Racing, Vance and Hines
and Yoshimura for a recommendation
about Factory Pro Products!
references
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RTR-HON-8-02
Ignition Advance Kit
also: -2, +4 and +6 degrees
Power, Mileage
$89.95

RTR-HON-8-04 $89.95
also available: -2, +4 and +6 degrees
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This kit advances the timing
2 degrees. Increases part throttle power - what you'd call snap!
Decrease rotating engine mass - Lightest weight advance available.
Other fixed advancers / retarders available, too.
The +4 advance is a MUST DO with drop-in Erion cams in a stock engine,
adding 1-2 True HP throughout the powerband. That's power measured under
load - just like the Real World!
If you want the +4 advance, just write that
in the Notes Section of your payment.
..................
I bought the RTR-HON-8-02 for my Honda CBR 900RR.
This is simply the best thing and easiest thing I have ever done to
my bike! Everybody I ride with wants to know what I did to make my
9RR so much more snappy in the mid range. And I gladly tell them
about your timing advance kits. And next on my list is your evo
shift kit! I was wondering if I could get some stickers to put on my
track day plastics. If needed I can send a SASE to you. My address
is Sylvia Kansas. Thank you very much!
Justin Strausberg
.....................................
Note:
The best combination - is
the AirBox Plus Kit and the +4 advancer
The APK Filter Kit will add
3-4 top the upper mid and peak rpm power.
The +4 will hurt the peak
HP about a horsepower, but, the midrange is noticeably better with
the +4 over the +2.
So, if you are willing to
accept 2-3 horsepower, instead of 3-4 horsepower with the APK kit,
you'll enjoy the +4 more than the +2.
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CRB-H38-1.1-TI
Standard drop-in carb kit
$149.95
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The premium "Ti ProKit".
Easy to install and tune - no slide drilling!
Same great performance as the standard 1.0 kit above, but includes the
best material available for needles - Titanium.
Stainless steel allen screws for the float bowls complete the "Ti ProKit"
upgrade.
Adds more low-end / midrange, if the proper main jet is selected, more
top-end power.
This is one of the kits that we made our reputation on. |
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FI-BMC-11404S
Power, Filtration, Maintenance
Factory Pro BMC Street
Filter
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Factory Pro BMC Street
air filter
Cleanable cotton gauze type filter. Totally injected molded frame. Lightest
aftermarket cotton gauze filter available! Flows similar to USA cotton
gauze/screen type filter, but a nicer piece.
Carb recalibration is not required, but even a stock bike will perform
better if the carbs are blueprinted. That's a
fact. |
$84.95
in stock |
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COV-H21-RH-KT
Cover Info
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RH Cover set for the 92 - 99 900. Absolutely
the strongest cover you can buy - and has the highest strength / weight
ratio available! Individual replacement cover parts available direct
from Factory. |
Note:
Complete LH cover no longer available.
Replacement LH outer cover
H38 - outer:
$79.95
COV-H21-RH-KT
$149.95
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RTR-ADJ-HON-8
Ignition Advance Kit
absolute 1 deg accuracy -
no exposed adj. screws!
Power, Mileage, Engineering
trickness
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This is the patented Factory
Pro Adjusted Ignition rotor.
Patented for it's absolute 1 degree indexing ability - without trying
to read inaccurate "hash" marks like other adjustable advancers AND
the unique internal adj. screw - there are NO exposed screws to
loosen and fall out inside the engine like ALL other adjustable ignition
rotors!
(We aren't falling for the other adj. ign. rotor manufacturer's "Loc-Tite
the adjustment screws so they don't fall out..." suggestion! |
$79.95 |
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CRB-H38-1.0
Standard drop-in carb kit
Power and Drivability
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Easy to install and tune
- no slide drilling! Well known in the States as the smoothest performing
kit available.
Adds more low-end / midrange, if the proper main jet is selected, more
top-end power.
This is one of the kits that we made our reputation on. |
$129.95 |
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SHFT-PRO-HON-21
Trans Detent Arm Kit
Quicker shifting,
fewer missed shifts
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Make shifting MUCH quicker
and virtually eliminate missed shifts. Helps address missed shifts caused
by poor shift detent "star" profile and weak and rough stock components.
Basically, the kit installs a new Microbearing "detent" arm and slightly
stiffer "detent" spring. The spring exerts more force on the arm and
the arm removes rotational friction from the shift drum - quicker shift
drum rotation = quicker shifts and fewer missed shifts.
BTW - fewer missed shifts means longer shift fork and engagement dog
life.
Installation requires removal of the engine clutch cover and complete
removal of the clutch. Requires the use of an air impact wrench
for the clutch nut.
This kit fits: 93-01 CBR600 and all CBR900/929. (thank you, Honda, for
using the same shift mechanism on all those bikes!)
User's comments |
$89.95 |
Subject: Thanks!!!
Airbox Plus Kit
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 19:30:57 +0100
From: davereddy@eircom.net
Organization: Eircom Net (http://www.eircom.net/)
To: "factory" <info@factorypro.com>
Dear Factory Pro!!!,
Well what can I say, Thank you Thank you Thank you.
I recently fitted one of your kits to my Fireblade (CBR
900RRS 1995 model) it was like getting a new bike! I have
had the bike for about 2 years now and I was starting to
get bored with it, then on with the kit and what do you
know its fun again. I fitted the +4° timing advancer, did
the air box conversion and went with the 140 jets and the
needle’s on the 3rd notch (down from top). It worked flawlessly,
even with the standard pipe. I fitted a full race can (Art
Full race) and the bike really purrs like a cat (a big one!)
now.
Full details: ~
Honda CBR 900 RRS (1995 Irish market model)
Stock cam
Stock pipe
Art Full race can (Muffler?)
Filter ~Factory Pro 2*Unifilter (as in Kit)
Pilot~ Stock
Needle clips~ 3rd notch
Main Jet ~ #140.
Ave Temp.~ 10-15°C
Humidity ~40 to 60%
Altitude ~Sea Level.
Location~ Dublin, Ireland
Did all the work myself, it is no problem (I am an engineer
by trade!).
I am now in the process of building a race bike, I hope
to race the Irish Clubman’s Super Sport 400cc next season.
The bike that I have is an NC-30 (VFR 400 R3N 1994 model)
Honda, and I would like to know if you make jet kits, timing
advancers and air box conversion kits for this bike, if
you do can you give me the details and let me know how I
can get one.
Yours gratefully,
Dave Reddy
Dublin,
Ireland (Full Postal Address: ~ 18 Seapark, Malahide, Co.
Dublin, Ireland)
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Subject: CBR 900 list
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 09:01:05 -0500
From: "Firth, Ian" <ian.firth@cdott.com>
To: "'Marc'" <factory2@ix.netcom.com>
Marc,
Just want to add to FJ's message. I got a CBR 9 this Spring with a full
TBR and a Factory Jet kit. I have asked a few questions on the list
and am more a lurker since I get the Digest and much of the mail is
answered before I see it. However, I have always found your answers
helpful and enjoy reading them. You helped me with my float setup and
the list answers, including yours over the year, set my jetting up well
according to my seat-of-the-pants dyno. So thank you for being so generous
with your time and knowledge, all the best business wise in 1999 and
have a merry Christmas.
Cheers, Ian
Subject: cbr900rr APK Airbox Plus Kit recommendation
Brian,
I had my 96 RR done with Two Bros full system, Air Box Plus kit, and
put in 49 state cams. Stock CA, my 900 had 98hp on a Dynojet Dyno. After,
it made 117hp, and unbelievably increased midrange. You will not believe
the improvement!
Good luck,
Mikey Rosenblum
Subject: cbr900rr RTR-ADJ-HON-8 Adjustable Ignition Rotor setting
Marc,
I have the RTR-ADJ-HON-8 advancer set at 2 degrees of retard.
The guys at Marietta Motorsports here in Atlanta say that seems
to be the hot setup. What do you think?
Rob
Rob,
Umm, -2 on a silly dj dyno, maybe that works under that dyno's light
load condition. I suggest that you set it where it feels strongest
to you in your operating condition. Then do it -2 and try it.
See what works best under real world load. Use that setting.
Marc
BTW - the guys at Marietta are pretty cool, but they need a Factory
Pro EC997 Low Inertia 4 Gas Eddy Current dyno so they can help people
even more!
Final:
Marc,
Final setting of +4 on the advancer. The minor loss at high RPM is offset
by the HUGE power anywhere else. Besides, I rarely run it to redline
on the street.
Now that I've had some time to play, I've noticed that the bike inhales
my friends' bikes at will. (except for that damned R1). And with the
filters, the motor sounds like it wants to suck the gas tank through
the carbs in the process!!
Thanks again for your help!
Rob
Subject: My Shift Kit Experience
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 19:44:34 -0800
From: "John Falb" <falb@aznet.net>
To: <factory2@ix.netcom.com>
Marc and Raul,
I just wanted to write you guys to say THANK YOU.
I ordered a shift kit for my '95 900RR and installed it with no problems.
I thought.
When I started it up the engine made a horrible knocking sound. I sxxt
a brick right then, I knew I fxxxxxd it up. The sound came from the
head and the clutch. So after disassembly and reinstallation with no
change I called Factory and talked to Raul.
He was very helpful and walked me through the steps to see where I want
wrong. After two phone calls and return call back I realized that my
screwdriver had been where is shouldn't have. When I first tried to
take off the nut for the outer clutch basket I stuck my screwdriver
into the crank/clutch gears to keep the clutch from spinning. BAD IDEA!
I had bent the outside edge of a couple of teeth. I filled the offenders
down and now she is better than new.
The shift kit works awesome. The feel is totally different and each
shift seems solid. I know when it goes into gear.
Anyway, everyone has always been very helpful at FactoryPro.
Thank you.
John Falb
Tech
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