part number /
description

Description

SHFT-EVO-H21-KT
$199.95

EVO-7 Detent Star Kit!
Includes Factory's AWESOME Detent Star - Totally changes the rough shifting the Hondas are known for into the sweetest shifting bike - The one you've always wanted!
Includes: Factory Pro designed, refined and manufactured DETENT STAR, Factory Pro Microbearing Detent Arm, heavy duty detent spring and gasket. Makes shifting quicker and more positive - "virtually" eliminating those nasty missed shifts. The stronger detent spring rotates the shift drum quicker, so the gears are more likely to engage under quick shift conditions - and "lazy" ones, too -
The Factory Pro Microbearing removes friction for the quickest shifting.
The closest to a "paddle shifter" for a motorcycle that you will ever find!!

As a professional engine builder (but less and less these days, marc), I've done most everything you can do to a set of gears, and shafts.

• A great (read as 5 to 10 hours of labor) gearbox job generally includes:
   

  • Shimming to minimize lateral play on the gears. (to builder's judgment)

  • Shimming to move each fixed gear closer to it's sliding mate (but not too close) (to builder's judgment)

  • Shimming shafts to move the assembly closer to an optimum position. (to builder's judgment)

  • Using a surface grinder to make your own custom thickness shims.

  • Making sure that you place the "rounded" side of the circlips against any shim or gear

    • That puts the "sharp" edge of the circlip nicely in the circlip retaining groove on the transmission shaft so it doesn't "ramp out" under side loading..

  • Checking and adjusting shift mechanism "fingers" on the shift star "pins". (to builder's judgment)

  • Checking, replacing gears with worn engagement dogs and slots - or undercutting worn engagement dogs.

    • I tend to try to use as little angle on the undercut, as the more undercut angle, the more you have to let off the power to get the gears to separate - important when not using a "quickshifter" or "air shifter".

  • Deburring of most gears, most shafts, the shift drum and the shift forks

    • A commercial facility, such as Supertech, owned by the iconic Dennis Zickrick, in Colorado, does metal finishing and low friction coatings.

  • I don't recommend cryogenically treating powdered metal gears, like most Japanese type gears are - I don't feel it's a good use of the process. I know that I'll get some flack on that. I'm not saying that "cryo" is bad, as I do use it at times for pistons, springs, knives, unfinished gun barrels... just not powdered metal gears or large finished machined castings.
     

• Additionally, separate from the gears and shafts, there's the shift mechanism (shift shaft, selector device, shift fingers, detent arm and spring, detent star)
   

  • Checking straightness of shift shaft (sometimes they get bent on the left, shift linkage / rear set side)

  • Polishing sliding parts in the shift mechanism (to decrease friction of shift drum rotation - and "quicker is better")

  • Reducing friction of the detent arm (arm needs a bearing - which we make as a model requires and "quicker is better")

  • optimizing detent arm spring pressure (if the spring pressure should be changed, we make - and "quicker is better")

  • optimizing detent ramps (if the ramps aren't right, we make replacement "stars" - making it "quicker")
     

• Adding an EVO Shift STAR kit - In general, if the gearbox is setup "alright" (I would say that most stock, original, undamaged transmissiona are "alright"), that just adding the EVO Shift STAR kit is going to be 80% to 90% of what is theoretically possible in improving shifting quickness, reducing missed shifts, decreasing rider effort and protecting the shift forks and gear engagement dogs from damage caused by missed shifts.
   

• How do you know that a transmission is shifting quicker and more reliably?

  • You can feel it when riding.

    • Even when hand shifting on the bench, it's easier to get out of gear and "snicks" into gear, rather than "clunks" into gear (yes, most Kaws won't shift into 2nd unless the output shaft is spinning :-)

  • You notice that you only have time to slightly "twitch" the throttle off a teeny bit between shifts and hardly have time to pull the clutch lever even a little before the bike's already in the next gear.

  • You "try" to miss a shift on bench or riding and almost can't.

  • Your "quickshifter" equipped bike shifts clunkily after an EVO Shift STAR kit install and you have to decrease "shift kill time" by 15 to 20ms to accommodate the EVO STAR's quicker shifting.

    • That 15 to 20ms is now converted to "engine power" time, rather than "engine kill" time. That will improve power delivery time on a racetrack and at the drags.

    • Funny story - an AMA team called up and said the bike's shifted awfully clunky after the Shift STAR - I was mystified and in talking, we couldn't figure out why the riders claimed the clunkiness - as in the pits, it was def. quicker - and didn't even think to ask about whether they were using a quickshifter.
      They called up later and said that they figured out that the "quickshifter" was now killing the power too long and it was perfect when they decreased the shift kill time.

      • BTW - for roadracing, a perfect QS system will have several factors to program. Should still be pretty easy to sort out - and there's nothing commercially available as or Feb 2009, and that includes the guy who supposedly built his own Suzuki ecu, (well, he did make the box at least - the ECU seemed to be a repackaged EFI Technologies ECU according to the software) on the market that's "right" for roadracing, though most all are are fine for drag racing and  "alright" for roadracing.

The one and only..
AIRBOX PLUS KIT
"APK Kit"
$189.95
CRB-H21-2.1-APK

A stock, restricted camshaft model to unrestricted cams, +4 Ignition Advance, AirBox PLUS KIT and competition exhaust


HP figures are
  True Rear Wheel HP Scale

This is the largest selling CBR900RR kit!

Adds up to 3-4 True Rear Wheel HP at high rpm over a properly jetted bike. (over a standard C-10 carb recal kit)
A must with ported heads or aftermarket cams. Allows more air at 7.5k+ rpm.
Replace the restrictive stock/aftermarket air filter AND KEEP the stock airbox exterior.
Perfect for Germany and other areas that do not allow airbox removal.
Produce Best Power - THROUGH all rpm's as compared with standard carb tuning. Unmatched Top-end Power. Makes more HP and COSTS LESS than other non pressurized airbox kit combinations.
Compare to BMC or K&N replacement filter and carb kit? Costs less and makes more power!
Add the RTR-HON-8-04 for very improved part throttle power, with the APK Kit. Wheelies better (at least until you get the clutch to slip!)

Requires internal airbox modification. Click here.

Available For 1993-1999 CBR900RR only.
When used with restricted camshafts, as in CA, France, Switzerland and others - use 2-3 sizes smaller main jets.

Ask D and D, Hindle, Kerker, M4, Mick Hone Motorcycles, Two Brothers Racing, Vance and Hines and Yoshimura for a recommendation about Factory Pro Products!
references

 
RTR-HON-8-02
Ignition Advance Kit
also: -2, +4 and +6 degrees
Power, Mileage

$89.95

This kit advances the timing 2 degrees. Increases part throttle power - what you'd call snap!
Decrease rotating engine mass - Lightest weight advance available.
Other fixed advancers / retarders available, too.

The +4 advance is a MUST DO with drop-in Erion cams in a stock engine, adding 1-2 True HP throughout the powerband. That's power measured under load - just like the Real World!

If you want the +4 advance, just write that in the Notes Section of your payment.

..................

I bought the RTR-HON-8-02 for my Honda CBR 900RR. This is simply the best thing and easiest thing I have ever done to my bike! Everybody I ride with wants to know what I did to make my 9RR so much more snappy in the mid range. And I gladly tell them about your timing advance kits. And next on my list is your evo shift kit! I was wondering if I could get some stickers to put on my track day plastics. If needed I can send a SASE to you. My address is Sylvia Kansas. Thank you very much!

Justin Strausberg

.....................................

Note:

The best combination - is the AirBox Plus Kit and the +4 advancer

The APK Filter Kit will add 3-4 top the upper mid and peak rpm power.

The +4 will hurt the peak HP about a horsepower, but, the midrange is noticeably better with the +4 over the +2.

So, if you are willing to accept 2-3 horsepower, instead of 3-4 horsepower with the APK kit, you'll enjoy the +4 more than the +2.
 

 
CRB-H38-1.1-TI
Standard drop-in carb kit

$149.95

FI-BMC-11404S
Power, Filtration, Maintenance
Factory Pro BMC Street Filter

COV-H21-RH-KT

Cover Info

Replacement LH outer cover
H38 - outer:
$79.95

COV-H21-RH-KT
$149.95

 
RTR-ADJ-HON-8
Ignition Advance Kit
absolute 1 deg accuracy -
no exposed adj. screws!
Power, Mileage, Engineering
 trickness

 

CRB-H38-1.0
Standard drop-in carb kit
Power and Drivability

SHFT-PRO-HON-21

Trans Detent Arm Kit

Subject: CBR 900 list
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 09:01:05 -0500
From: "Firth, Ian" <ian.firth@cdott.com>
To: "'Marc'" <factory2@ix.netcom.com>

Marc,
Just want to add to FJ's message. I got a CBR 9 this Spring with a full TBR and a Factory Jet kit. I have asked a few questions on the list and am more a lurker since I get the Digest and much of the mail is answered before I see it. However, I have always found your answers helpful and enjoy reading them. You helped me with my float setup and the list answers, including yours over the year, set my jetting up well according to my seat-of-the-pants dyno. So thank you for being so generous with your time and knowledge, all the best business wise in 1999 and have a merry Christmas.

Cheers, Ian

Subject: cbr900rr APK Airbox Plus Kit recommendation

Brian,

I had my 96 RR done with Two Bros full system, Air Box Plus kit, and put in 49 state cams. Stock CA, my 900 had 98hp on a Dynojet Dyno. After, it made 117hp, and unbelievably increased midrange. You will not believe the improvement!

Good luck,

Mikey Rosenblum

Subject: cbr900rr RTR-ADJ-HON-8 Adjustable Ignition Rotor setting

Marc,
I have the RTR-ADJ-HON-8 advancer set at 2 degrees of  retard. The guys at Marietta Motorsports here in Atlanta say that  seems to be the hot setup. What do you think?
Rob

Rob,
Umm, -2 on a silly dj dyno, maybe that works under that dyno's light load condition.  I suggest that you set it where it feels strongest to you in your  operating condition. Then do it -2 and try it. See what works best under real world load. Use that setting.
Marc
BTW - the guys at Marietta are pretty cool, but they need a Factory Pro EC997 Low Inertia 4 Gas Eddy Current dyno so they can help people even more!

Final:

Marc,
Final setting of +4 on the advancer. The minor loss at high RPM is offset by the HUGE power anywhere else. Besides, I rarely run it to redline on the street.

Now that I've had some time to play, I've noticed that the bike inhales my friends' bikes at will. (except for that damned R1). And with the filters,  the motor sounds like it wants to suck the gas tank through the carbs in the process!!

Thanks again for your help!
Rob

Subject:  My Shift Kit Experience
Date:  Tue, 9 Jan 2001 19:44:34 -0800
From:  "John Falb" <falb@aznet.net>
To: <factory2@ix.netcom.com>

Marc and Raul,

I just wanted to write you guys to say THANK YOU.

I ordered a shift kit for my '95 900RR and installed it with no problems. I thought.

When I started it up the engine made a horrible knocking sound. I sxxt a brick right then, I knew I fxxxxxd it up. The sound came from the head and the clutch. So after disassembly and reinstallation with no change I called Factory and talked to Raul.

He was very helpful and walked me through the steps to see where I want wrong. After two phone calls and return call back I realized that my screwdriver had been where is shouldn't have. When I first tried to take off the nut for the outer clutch basket I stuck my screwdriver into the crank/clutch gears to keep the clutch from spinning. BAD IDEA! I had bent the outside edge of a couple of teeth. I filled the offenders down and now she is better than new.

The shift kit works awesome. The feel is totally different and each shift seems solid. I know when it goes into gear.

Anyway, everyone has always been very helpful at FactoryPro.

Thank you.

John Falb

Tech

• Ignition Rotor, indexed, adjustable, new style

Links

• Bladerunners Site

• Fireblade  Zone France

• http://rocketRR.com THE Big Kahuna site!