Carburetor Recalibration

CRB-H71-1.7-RK
1.7-RK RaceKit

$179.95

It is called a Factory PRO "RaceKit" because there are some modifications done to the carb body that should be done by an experienced mechanic / tuner - It is not a "drop-in / no drilling required" kit like the Config 10 and the "1.1-Ti" ProKits are. Mods consist of removing the original main air jets, tapping the carb body to accept replaceable main air jets and that's about it for the tricky bits. So, if you are confident in your ability to tap an expensive set of carb bodies, this IS the highest performing, cleanest running carb recal kit available - from anywhere.
This kit WILL allow the engine to produce the it's best top-end power - without sacrificing low and midrange power. Generally, the engine will produce 1-2 more True HP and 2-4 djhp.
Adding a +4 degree Advance will pick up the part throttle response, too - making the engine more lively when rolling on the throttle exiting corners and snappier (wheelie prone) when driving in town (you hooligan!)..... For ultimate adjustability, get the Adjustable!
To shift quicker and virtually eliminate missed shifts, get the SHFT-PRO-HON-21 kit. How cool is the Trans Kit? "Kick it out of one gear and it'll go into the next gear!"
Even in 2001, a slightly modified 93-98 600 can still be competitive in racing - with the right mods.  A BMC Race filter, a bit more compression, a bit of port work......

CRB-H71-1.1-TI
Standard drop-in carb kit
$149.95

The Ti ProKit. Easy to install and tune - no slide drilling! Titanium needles for lightest needle weight and best carb durability.
Adds more low-end / midrange, if the proper main jet is selected, more top-end power.
This is one of the kits that we made our reputation on.

CRB-H71-1.0
Standard drop-in carb kit
$139.95

Easy to install and tune - no slide drilling! This is the general purpose kit. 
Adds more low-end / midrange, if the proper main jet is selected, more top-end power.
This is one of the kits that we made our reputation on.

Air filters

FI-BMC-11514S
Factory Pro BMC Street Filter

call to check stock.

NEW Factory Pro BMC Street air filter
Cleanable cotton gauze type filter.
Carb recalibration is not required, but even a stock bike will perform better if the carbs are blueprinted. That's a fact.

Ignition Advance Rotors

RTR-HON-8-02
Ignition Advance Rotor
$79.95

This kit advances the timing 2 degrees and will generally pick up the full throttle power a little bit, but it's biggest benefit is that part throttle power increases.

How does that translate to the rider? More "snap" coming off of corners, better throttle "feel" and improves the ability of the rider to "drift" the rear wheel, under power when exiting corners at part throttle / high rpm.

Other than that (if you don't quite follow the above? It FEELS better! :-)

RTR-ADJ-HON-8
Ignition Advance Kit
absolute 1 deg accuracy -
no exposed adj. screws!
$79.95

This is the patented Factory Pro Adjusted Ignition rotor.

In fact it's the ONLY patented ignition rotor in the world!

Patented for it's absolute 1 degree indexing ability - without trying to read inaccurate "hash" marks like other adjustable advancers AND the unique internal adj. screw  - there are NO exposed screws to loosen and fall out inside the engine like ALL other adjustable ignition rotors!
Adjust for best throttle response for your engine combination. Absolutely required if you have high compression or porting on your engine!
(We aren't falling for the other adj. ign. rotor manufacturer's "loctite the adjustment screws so they don't fall out..." suggestion!)

Transmission Detent Kit

$199.95

Imagine
Last lap, last corner, 110 mph, two wheel drift... passing on the outside, bike carefully controlled by just the subtlest of weight transfer and just a "fingers touch" on the throttle... you run out of rpm and need to upshift to complete the pass.... you need to shift.... it's ok.... a tap and you are in the 4th, still in a drift....... you keep slightly pulling... around.... slowly past....
you win. 

EVO-7 Detent Star Kit!
Includes Factory's AWESOME Detent Star - Totally changes the rough shifting the Hondas are known for into the sweetest shifting bike - The one you've always wanted!
Includes: Factory Pro designed, refined and manufactured DETENT STAR, Factory Pro Microbearing Detent Arm, heavy duty detent spring and gasket. Makes shifting quicker and more positive - "virtually" eliminating those nasty missed shifts. The stronger detent spring rotates the shift drum quicker, so the gears are more likely to engage under quick shift conditions - and "lazy" ones, too -
The Factory Pro Microbearing removes friction for the quickest shifting.
The closest to a "paddle shifter" for a motorcycle that you will ever find!!

SHFT-PRO-HON-21

Trans Detent Arm Kit
$89.95

Pro Shift Kit

Make shifting MUCH quicker and virtually eliminate missed shifts. Helps address missed shifts caused by poor shift detent "star" profile and weak and rough stock components.
Basically, the kit installs a new microbearinged "detent" arm and slightly stiffer "detent" spring. The spring exerts more force on the arm and the arm removes rotational friction from the shift drum - quicker shift drum rotation = quicker shifts and fewer missed shifts.
BTW - fewer missed shifts means longer shift fork and engagement dog life.
Installation requires removal of the engine clutch cover and complete removal of the clutch. Requires the use of an air impact  wrench for the clutch nut.
This kit fits: 93-98 600, 99-01 600, cbr900, all and cbr900/929. (thank you, Honda, for using the same shift mechanism on all those bikes!)
User's comments

STAR-H21
$130

It's part of the newer EVO Shift STAR kits for the later bike - but we decided to offer it as an upgrade for all the the Pro Shift Kits on the F2's and F3's that are already out there.

User's comments

Cover set for the F2 and F3. Absolutely the strongest covers you can buy - and has the highest strength / weight ratio available! Individual replacement cover parts available direct from Factory.

• Test #1.........+0 degrees advance on properly jetted F3
• Test #2..........+4 degrees advance on properly jetted F3

Actual Screen on EC997 Eddy Current Dyno
(click browser "view image" to enlarge)

Is a +4 advance a good addition for this particular modified bike?

Yes, on this bike, we'd use the +4 degree. A standard, full throttle dyno test shows that there are minor power changes, less than 1hp here and there when at full throttle, but at part throttle, (not shown on this chart) power is increased at nearly every rpm - at every throttle position that is less than full throttle.
This explains why a rider will say that the bike feels quicker and pulls harder out of corners - because it is quicker and it does pull harder - they are not at full throttle - even though a typical dyno says there isn't a power increase. An experienced dyno operator with a decent dyno will be able to show power at part throttle. Look for a 4 Gas EC997 for best test information.
A +2 degree advance generally wouldn't lose any power at any rpm at full throttle, but the part throttle power wouldn't be increased as much. Generally, if you feel an unacceptable amount of power loss at high rpm while riding, you would avoid the power loss by retarding the timing in usually 2 degree increments until power picks back up.

Answer:
No.

Some pick up or lose power (when adding too much additional advance) at different RPM's with more ignition timing lead, but most all have improved power at part throttle settings.

Look at the dyno charts that we commonly publish - I usually post them when I have a request -

When we sell an advancer, we always sell the rotor with the amount of timing that improves or, in rare cases, keeps the same power at full open throttle - If it was worse, we'd back off the timing till it worked out - and if there was a hp loss at full throttle with any amount of additional advance - we just don't sell one.

That's why Factory Pro suggests, depending on the bikes, either a +2, +4 and in a few cases, +6 degrees advance -

You have to be wary, though -

If one is doing power testing at full throttle using uncontrolled loading, as in dynojet testing, realistic optimal tuning settings, as compared to real world, will be skewed because the combustion chamber material  temperatures are 300f to 400f in the typical dj test  - and are significantly lower than in the real world.

The amount of heat in the combustion chamber affects air/fuel "burn rate" and that affects best advance setting and optimum tuning results for the real world-

Marc