Here it is - The legendary, almost mythical Teka 4!

YEARS of R&D and Hundreds of thousands of dollars to develop

Designed to be tuned to Best Power as are all Factory Pro tuning products - AMA proven, over and over again.

Have a lumpy idle after replacing your exhaust?
If anything can tune the lumpy idle out, it would be the Teka 4. It's so simple to tune that a computer equipped rider can easily do low speed tuning.

Can be tuned to Best Power on the legendary EC997 dyne systems - or a dj or dj clone, if there's not a local EC997 dyno near you.

Remember

It's the Teka 4:

"It's REALTIME"

Factory Pro CBR600rr Velocity Stacks

 RA-VEL-H85-058
$279.95 set

Adds 2 to 2.5 peak TRUE HP.

These stacks, with the BMC Race filter, added 3 TRUE HP -

Perfect for your racebike, trackday bike or for your awesome streetbike!

The majority of improved power was due to the V Stacks.

Testing on an EC997 Low Inertia brake dyno indicates that if one were to install stacks and the BMC RACE filter, you could then, with a proper dyno, advance the intake cam to gain even more lowend and midrange, in addition to picking up the peak number, too.
This is due to the fact that the stacks decrease the amount of time required to fill the cylinder - therefore allowing you to advance the intake cam, i.e. closing the intake valve earlier and that increases the trapped compression (i.e. "psi" on a gauge).
It's the same as milling the head for more compression - which all streetbikes need!!
Premium pump fuel would be fine - Modern smallbore motorcycle engines simply don't detonate, even on low lead regular.

Feedback
"I can keep up with R6's!!"
Lopez, 11/2003 -  Thunderhill Raceway, CA
 

James Stroud
2004 WERA

CBR600rr equipped with:
Factory Pro V-Stacks (above) and Factory Pro Shift STAR kit (below).
Based: KC Powersports, Huntsville, AL
256 650-1177

FIB-HON-33604 R
Factory Pro BMC Race Filter
Available Now!$99.95
in stock

EVO
Shift STAR kit

SHFT-EVO-H21-KT $199.95

EVO Shift STAR kit

As a professional engine builder (but less and less these days, marc), I've done most everything you can do to a set of gears, and shafts.

• A great (read as 5 to 10 hours of labor) gearbox job generally includes:
   

  • Shimming to minimize lateral play on the gears. (to builder's judgment)

  • Shimming to move each fixed gear closer to it's sliding mate (but not too close) (to builder's judgment)

  • Shimming shafts to move the assembly closer to an optimum position. (to builder's judgment)

  • Using a surface grinder to make your own custom thickness shims.

  • Making sure that you place the "rounded" side of the circlips against any shim or gear

    • That puts the "sharp" edge of the circlip nicely in the circlip retaining groove on the transmission shaft so it doesn't "ramp out" under side loading..

  • Checking and adjusting shift mechanism "fingers" on the shift star "pins". (to builder's judgment)

  • Checking, replacing gears with worn engagement dogs and slots - or undercutting worn engagement dogs.

    • I tend to try to use as little angle on the undercut, as the more undercut angle, the more you have to let off the power to get the gears to separate - important when not using a "quickshifter" or "air shifter".

  • Deburring of most gears, most shafts, the shift drum and the shift forks

    • A commercial facility, such as Supertech, owned by the iconic Dennis Zickrick, in Colorado, does metal finishing and low friction coatings.

  • I don't recommend cryogenically treating powdered metal gears, like most Japanese type gears are - I don't feel it's a good use of the process. I know that I'll get some flack on that. I'm not saying that "cryo" is bad, as I do use it at times for pistons, springs, knives, unfinished gun barrels... just not powdered metal gears or large finished machined castings.
     

• Additionally, separate from the gears and shafts, there's the shift mechanism (shift shaft, selector device, shift fingers, detent arm and spring, detent star)
   

  • Checking straightness of shift shaft (sometimes they get bent on the left, shift linkage / rear set side)

  • Polishing sliding parts in the shift mechanism (to decrease friction of shift drum rotation - and "quicker is better")

  • Reducing friction of the detent arm (arm needs a bearing - which we make as a model requires and "quicker is better")

  • optimizing detent arm spring pressure (if the spring pressure should be changed, we make - and "quicker is better")

  • optimizing detent ramps (if the ramps aren't right, we make replacement "stars" - making it "quicker")
     

• Adding an EVO Shift STAR kit - In general, if the gearbox is setup "alright" (I would say that most stock, original, undamaged transmissiona are "alright"), that just adding the EVO Shift STAR kit is going to be 80% to 90% of what is theoretically possible in improving shifting quickness, reducing missed shifts, decreasing rider effort and protecting the shift forks and gear engagement dogs from damage caused by missed shifts.
   

• How do you know that a transmission is shifting quicker and more reliably?

  • You can feel it when riding.

    • Even when hand shifting on the bench, it's easier to get out of gear and "snicks" into gear, rather than "clunks" into gear (yes, most Kaws won't shift into 2nd unless the output shaft is spinning :-)

  • You notice that you only have time to slightly "twitch" the throttle off a teeny bit between shifts and hardly have time to pull the clutch lever even a little before the bike's already in the next gear.

  • You "try" to miss a shift on bench or riding and almost can't.

  • Your "quickshifter" equipped bike shifts clunkily after an EVO Shift STAR kit install and you have to decrease "shift kill time" by 15 to 20ms to accommodate the EVO STAR's quicker shifting.

    • That 15 to 20ms is now converted to "engine power" time, rather than "engine kill" time. That will improve power delivery time on a racetrack and at the drags.

    • Funny story - an AMA team called up and said the bike's shifted awfully clunky after the Shift STAR - I was mystified and in talking, we couldn't figure out why the riders claimed the clunkiness - as in the pits, it was def. quicker - and didn't even think to ask about whether they were using a quickshifter.
      They called up later and said that they figured out that the "quickshifter" was now killing the power too long and it was perfect when they decreased the shift kill time.

      • BTW - for roadracing, a perfect QS system will have several factors to program. Should still be pretty easy to sort out - and there's nothing commercially available as or Feb 2009, and that includes the guy who supposedly built his own Suzuki ecu, (well, he did make the box at least - the ECU seemed to be a repackaged EFI Technologies ECU according to the software) on the market that's "right" for roadracing, though most all are are fine for drag racing and  "alright" for roadracing.

It's everything that I ever wanted to do to a shift mechanism -
Slightly stronger detent spring - a new MicroBearing detent arm and the final piece... A completely redesigned, empirically refined, multi angled, variable radii, repeaked and valleyed:
EVO-7 DETENT STAR
This part will totally change the feel of the bike as a whole. The shifting effort is about the same - but the speed at which the gears actually engage is dramatically improved - Quicker, easier, shifting - A "twitch" on the lever and the throttle and you are in the next gear! Perfect for track use and road riding for effortless downshifts into a corner and just a "tap" to upshift without any more than a "twitch" off the throttle -

That's not even mentioning that missed shifts virtually disappear!

In town? Low rpm cruise in second - shift to third? So quick and smooth that it will surprise and amaze - NO more clunky, lazy shifting in town - As I said - it's totally different and improved -

Proven concept - Virtually all the Factory Pro Support riders in the AMA and WERA multi- Champions Vesrah Racing tested and proved the EVO-7 Stars in 2003.

Stock shift performance that everybody used to take as a "given" will be regarded as "slow and lazy" after riding a bike with this kit -

Kit includes the new Factory Pro designed Shift Kit, a new Factory Pro detent arm with a low friction microbearing roller, a new Factory Pro shift spring and the NEW Factory Pro EVO Detent Star.

Make shifting MUCH quicker. MUCH easier, MUCH lighter and virtually eliminate missed shifts.

Marc  800 869-0497 

SHFT-PRO-HON-21 $89.95
Trans Detent Arm Kit

The Original "Pro Shift Kit"
Make shifting quicker and virtually eliminate missed shifts. Helps address missed shifts caused by poor shift detent "star" profile. MUCH more consistent shifting!
Not at liberty to disclose WHO used this kit on their F4's.........

It's the Shift STAR kit w/o the STAR

User's comments

All power products are developed on the Factory Pro EC997a Low Inertia Load Dyno for .1hp resolution for maximum performance.
For the best in tuning - locate the Factory Pro Dyno Center nearest you.
They will have the latest Factory Pro CBR600fi products first!

To diagnose rich or lean conditions, comparing Factory Pro's Eddy Current Sweep and Eddy Current Step Tests will allow, even without an exhaust gas analyzer, you to diagnose many rich and lean carburetion problems.

To do these tests, you must have load conditions that are equal, as far as the engine is concerned, to get comparable information. Factory Pro is the only company that specializes in tuning and has empirically derived more than one formula to do this.

Generally, if other dyno companies are asked, they respond with "We can do that" or "You don't need to do that." Not acceptable. Your dyno manufacturer should be able to help tune.

Companies with add-on "retarders" bolted onto high inertia systems cause excess engine wear when testing.

Eddy Current dynamometer systems must be originally designed as low inertia systems so as to not cause excess engine wear.

Factory Pro's EC997 Eddy Current dyno is the state of the art in Tuning Procedures.