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up to +6 to +8 TRUE HP upper midrange Superflare Billet RACE Velocity Stacks $249.95 |
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Shift STAR kit for the Busa |
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Teka SFI Suzuki Fuel Injection Adjusting Tool |
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S36 Ignition Advancer Kit |
| Superflare Billet Velocity Stacks | |
 (sample pic, not of 08-09 Hayabusa) up to +3 to +5 and more midrange hp (if properly tested) Easy 30 minute install, no drilling or cutting required pn: VEL-S31-4545 $279.95 |
Hayabusa Superflare RACE V Stacks
(Note: 99-07 stacks will not work or fit the 08-09) Marc Salvisberg of Factory Pro designed and tested.
Patented
clipless design. And! Bonus! Note: All testing done under fully loaded dyno
conditions on
EC997
Dyne systems to get proper HP production.
Testing done on dealership level dynos "inertia" loading may appear
to be lesser or greater amounts of power. Drop-in them in an hour. Ride the bike.
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25350-24F00 oe same as 07 25381-13E10 oe same as 07 11485-24F00 oe same as 07 SHFT-EVO-KIT-S92 $169.95
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Factory Pro's awesome new
Banish the "Busa Boot Shift" forever. We all know that the Hayabusa shifting is feels heavy and slow. The Shift STAR kit transforms the Busa into a sweet, quick shifting bike, worthy of any competition use.... and for day to day use? It's a dream come true. Decrease Quick shifter "shift kill duration"
for drag racing - better ET.
................................ Install notes: Installation requires countershaft sprocket
removal. Impact wrench recommended Remove the countershaft sprocket. It's possible that some individual frames may be bent and welded very slightly differently, but we haven't seen one, yet. |
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Teka SFI - THE solution for quick fuel injection changes |
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Tiny!
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MMT Power Switch
After tuning with a Teka SFI 2, MMT plugs right in to the bikes tuning port (same as the SFI). If tuning with the SFI 2 / MMT combination: If tuning with the MMT only (without custom SFI
tuning): If you first install an MMT and decide the have
it custom tuned with the SFI 2, no problem. Then, you still have the ability to "trim" map for conditions with the Power Select Switch - and you even have, by setting it at "0", to recheck how the "zero" map was in comparison to your "SFI Tuned Map". EZ install - all stock connectors, no splicing. |
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Ignition Advance Kit |
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The Factory Pro
S36 Ignition Advance Kit advances
the timing 5 degrees! Improves power and "snap", lowend and midrange and even a True horsepower or so at full throttle in a stock engine (meaning an engine with stock compression) With stock engines with stock compression ratios, there is more power everywhere. Part throttle power is better - helping corner exit speeds. Improved in-town drivability. It's 100% reliable, unlike
electronic ignition boxes.... Ignition Advance KEY, Installation SV650, SV1000 DL650 DL1000 Hayabusa installation and pictures |
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Drop in a Factory
Pro BMC race air filter and add 3hp-4hp at high rpm. Really. The stock FI system "mostly" recognizes the increased airflow and automatically adds a bit more fuel in some areas to partially compensate at full throttle, high rpm. We haven't seen any drivability problems caused by the filter, but for best results, add +20 with TEKA SFI Fuel Injection Adjustment Tool. Necessary to use power commander? No. TEKA Suzuki FI Tool (like Yosh box on steroids) and slight TPI/TPS adjustment will eliminate off-idle problem that pc2 often causes and aggravates. We do Busa tuning, here, in San Rafael. 415 491-5920 Designed by the same Italian craftsmen that developed Ferrari's F1 Air Filters - this filter filters well, flows more air and lets the engine make more power than the stock air filter. Cleanable BMC air filter systems (avail. direct from Factory Pro) for more power - click here for more information. True Rear Wheel Horsepower (tm) scale - difference between other scales. |
True Rear Wheel Horsepower® Factory EC997a Eddy Current Dynamometer
INSTALL IGNITION ADVANCE
(body)
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Ignition Advance Install Hints |
NOTE! - This just an abbreviated guide with hints and some experience added It is suggested that you have a genuine Suzuki service manual to refer to at all times. If you have a question about ANYTHING or are unclear about what to do, call us, call your dealer, call somebody, call anybody, but don't think that you can't break anything, put something together wrong, hurt yourself, or worse, hurt somebody else. BE CAREFUL. Marc |
| tools 1/2" air or electric impact wrench 1/2" 17mm and 19mm sockets (use impact sockets for safety) 17mm box wrench grease plastic mallet (or reasonable facsimile) |
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| To start REMOVE THE IGNITION KEY and either: |
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.JPG) |
Here's the right side of a well used trackday
bike that we were doing some work on. It makes pretty good power, with Twin Works (Zoran's) bored throttle bodies, mixed and matched intake cams and an exhaust system. We tuned custom length Factory Pro V stacks for it, tested The RTR-SUZ-36-04 +4 ignition advance key and tuned the PC3 for both R-Tech Pro V and pump premium. The stacks were good for 1-2 on top with the High
Rpm setup and 4ish in the midrange with the midrange set. |
.JPG) |
Remove the case screws. Tap with a plastic mallet to break the cover gasket free. fwiw, 90% of the time, the gasket won't break, but do you feel lucky? (have a spare gasket handy......) |
.JPG) |
After it's free, wiggle and pull the cover off
and swing it off to the back. Use a bungee cord to hold it back out of your way. No need to remove the clutch cable. |
.JPG) |
Here's the infamous idler gear shaft. It usually sticks in the cover, and it would be best to pull it out of the cover now and stick it back through the idler gear in the engine case. |
.JPG) |
Here it is, installed, at 9 o'clock, just to the
left of the flywheel. To get the gear hole to line up with the crankcase hole, use a 17mm wrench to wiggle the crankshaft while "eye balling" the hole alignment, the gently inserting the idler shaft and wiggling the crank till it finally slips into place. |
.JPG) |
Now, WITH A 1/2" impact wrench, unscrew the 17mm flywheel bolt. |
.JPG) |
Now, lightly grease the initial threads on the
flywheel puller and put a dab of grease on the face (like the
mechanic is about to do). The grease is to lubricate the threads and crank face and help prevent galling when you are impacting the puller bolt |
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19mm socket and 1/2" impact. Read below frame. |
| Puller Background "Intro Course" The "taper fit" of the crank / internal rotor are EXTREMELY sensitive to ANY dimensional tolerance in the manufacturing process. 1.25% of the flywheels will surprisingly pop off with a single:"2-3 hit" and the other 1.25% will be tough. About 97.5% of the rotors will pop right off with a few short 3-4 hit Impact Wrench bursts. Some will sit there and not pop off after after 10-15 "3-4 pulse hit and waits", even after sitting there overnight with a tightened up puller. If, after overnight, and a few "hit and waits" in the AM, it still doesn't pop off (and you are using a proven strength 1/2" Impact Wrench), then I would suspect that you have one of the "tight" 1.25%'ers.and suggest 1 of 3 options. 1. Stop and give up. (You don't HAVE to have an ignition advance, do you?) 2. Unscrew the puller, re-grease and try a few more "hit and waits" in 10 hit increments, getting closer to stripping the puller and maybe the the flywheel threads (stripped threads are only actually expensive if you insist on pulling the flywheel, ever). 3. Call your friendly local dealer to do it, be honest and tell them what you are doing and tell them that the flywheel isn't popping off. and a 4th option that's not 1 of the 3 good options: 4. Put it all back to together and don't tell the dealer that the flywheel wasn't popping off. That's got you a good chance of them, working in good faith, stripping the flywheel, because they don't know that the flywheel is a "tight one". I've run into only a couple flywheels in SV/DL's that just refused to pop off (out of literally 100's), even after 10 hit increments, an "overnight" and a few more hits during the next day. I eventually deferred to option 1 (you don't REALLY have to have an ignition advance, do you?). But I do remember a flywheel that popped off after a couple DAYS of patient "hit and waits!) Now that I've scared you........ the SV type engines are usually OK. Marc |
|
.JPG) |
If you are lucky, the key will be at about 12
o'clock. If not, put the flywheel back on,
the bolt back in lightly impact it in and use a 17mm wrench to turn
the crank to put the keyway slot at 12 o'clock. Then remove the
flywheel again. The IS a mark on the flywheel that you could use to line up so that the keyway is at 12 o'clock before you pull the flywheel, but...... I forgot to take a picture of it before I left the shop. If you can help with that, email me |
.JPG) |
The stock woodruff key may be stuck in the crank
slot. A few light taps will help. Be careful to prevent the key from bouncing down, behind the starter clutch gear and into the nether regions of your dark, unreachable voids of your crankcases.
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| Woodruff Key Primer A Woodruff key or half-moon key, is a semicircular shaped, removable key that fits into a matching keyway cut into a shaft, leaving a protruding tab. The tab mates with a matching slot on a device mounted flush upon the shaft e.g. a pulley, thus preventing the device from freely rotating about the shaft. It is widely used in machine tools and in the automotive industry. This type of key was developed by W.N. Woodruff of Connecticut, who was presented in 1888 with the John Scott Medal by the Franklin Institute for the invention.[1] from Wikipedia When a woodruff key is used on a tapered shaft fit (like the tapered shaft on the crank and the flywheel), the key is actually only used for lining up the shaft and flywheel before it's tightened and "pressed onto" and locked in place by the "wedging action" of the two "fits". |
|
.JPG) |
On the SV, DL and Hayabusa engines, the Factory
Pro key is a special custom made "offset" type. When key is installed with offset to the LEFT (the same way the engine rotates), you are advancing the ignition timing. (normally, that's how you'd install). One end of the key slips into the crank's slot and the outer part shifts the flywheel over to rotate the flywheel (and the bumps on the perimeter that trigger the ignition pulses) to the left, in direction of engine rotation, to advance the ignition timing. You "could" install the key with the offset to the right to retard the timing, should you need to do that for nitrous or turbo apps. |
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Reassembly: Make sure idler gear shaft is properly in place. Line up flywheel with key and jiggle till the flywheel engages properly with the starter clutch behind. Replace 17mm flywheel bolt, 87 ft/lbs is the book specified torque (some mechanics with good feel use an impact wrench). Replace the cover. Reinstall the cover bolts. 5-7ft/lbs is the torque. If you drained or lost any oil, CHECK AND REFILL THE OIL before starting!!!! |
|
Ignition Advance Install Hints |
NOTE! - This just an abbreviated guide with hints and some experience added It is suggested that you have a genuine Suzuki service manual to refer to at all times. If you have a question about ANYTHING or are unclear about what to do, call us, call your dealer, call somebody, call anybody, but don't think that you can't break anything, put something together wrong, hurt yourself, or worse, hurt somebody else. BE CAREFUL. Marc |
| tools 1/2" air or electric impact wrench 1/2" 17mm and 19mm sockets (use impact sockets for safety) 17mm box wrench grease plastic mallet (or reasonable facsimile) |
|
| To start REMOVE THE IGNITION KEY and either: |
|
|
|
Here's the right side of a well used trackday
bike that we were doing some work on. It makes pretty good power, with Twin Works (Zoran's) bored throttle bodies, mixed and matched intake cams and an exhaust system. We tuned custom length Factory Pro V stacks for it, tested The RTR-SUZ-36-04 +4 ignition advance key and tuned the PC3 for both R-Tech Pro V and pump premium. The stacks were good for 1-2 on top with the High
Rpm setup and 4ish in the midrange with the midrange set. |
|
|
Remove the case screws. Tap with a plastic mallet to break the cover gasket free. fwiw, 90% of the time, the gasket won't break, but do you feel lucky? (have a spare gasket handy......) |
|
|
After it's free, wiggle and pull the cover off
and swing it off to the back. Use a bungee cord to hold it back out of your way. No need to remove the clutch cable. |
|
|
Here's the infamous idler gear shaft. It usually sticks in the cover, and it would be best to pull it out of the cover now and stick it back through the idler gear in the engine case. |
|
|
Here it is, installed, at 9 o'clock, just to the
left of the flywheel. To get the gear hole to line up with the crankcase hole, use a 17mm wrench to wiggle the crankshaft while "eye balling" the hole alignment, the gently inserting the idler shaft and wiggling the crank till it finally slips into place. |
|
|
Now, WITH A 1/2" impact wrench, unscrew the 17mm flywheel bolt. |
|
|
Now, lightly grease the initial threads on the
flywheel puller and put a dab of grease on the face (like the
mechanic is about to do). The grease is to lubricate the threads and crank face and help prevent galling when you are impacting the puller bolt |
|
|
19mm socket and 1/2" impact. Read below frame. |
| Puller Background "Intro Course" The "taper fit" of the crank / internal rotor are EXTREMELY sensitive to ANY dimensional tolerance in the manufacturing process. 1.25% of the flywheels will surprisingly pop off with a single:"2-3 hit" and the other 1.25% will be tough. About 97.5% of the rotors will pop right off with a few short 3-4 hit Impact Wrench bursts. Some will sit there and not pop off after after 10-15 "3-4 pulse hit and waits", even after sitting there overnight with a tightened up puller. If, after overnight, and a few "hit and waits" in the AM, it still doesn't pop off (and you are using a proven strength 1/2" Impact Wrench), then I would suspect that you have one of the "tight" 1.25%'ers.and suggest 1 of 3 options. 1. Stop and give up. (You don't HAVE to have an ignition advance, do you?) 2. Unscrew the puller, re-grease and try a few more "hit and waits" in 10 hit increments, getting closer to stripping the puller and maybe the the flywheel threads (stripped threads are only actually expensive if you insist on pulling the flywheel, ever). 3. Call your friendly local dealer to do it, be honest and tell them what you are doing and tell them that the flywheel isn't popping off. and a 4th option that's not 1 of the 3 good options: 4. Put it all back to together and don't tell the dealer that the flywheel wasn't popping off. That's got you a good chance of them, working in good faith, stripping the flywheel, because they don't know that the flywheel is a "tight one". I've run into only a couple flywheels in SV/DL's that just refused to pop off (out of literally 100's), even after 10 hit increments, an "overnight" and a few more hits during the next day. I eventually deferred to option 1 (you don't REALLY have to have an ignition advance, do you?). But I do remember a flywheel that popped off after a couple DAYS of patient "hit and waits!) Now that I've scared you........ the SV type engines are usually OK. Marc |
|
|
|
If you are lucky, the key will be at about 12
o'clock. If not, put the flywheel back on,
the bolt back in lightly impact it in and use a 17mm wrench to turn
the crank to put the keyway slot at 12 o'clock. Then remove the
flywheel again. The IS a mark on the flywheel that you could use to line up so that the keyway is at 12 o'clock before you pull the flywheel, but...... I forgot to take a picture of it before I left the shop. If you can help with that, email me |
|
|
The stock woodruff key may be stuck in the crank
slot. A few light taps will help. Be careful to prevent the key from bouncing down, behind the starter clutch gear and into the nether regions of your dark, unreachable voids of your crankcases.
|
| Woodruff Key Primer A Woodruff key or half-moon key, is a semicircular shaped, removable key that fits into a matching keyway cut into a shaft, leaving a protruding tab. The tab mates with a matching slot on a device mounted flush upon the shaft e.g. a pulley, thus preventing the device from freely rotating about the shaft. It is widely used in machine tools and in the automotive industry. This type of key was developed by W.N. Woodruff of Connecticut, who was presented in 1888 with the John Scott Medal by the Franklin Institute for the invention.[1] from Wikipedia When a woodruff key is used on a tapered shaft fit (like the tapered shaft on the crank and the flywheel), the key is actually only used for lining up the shaft and flywheel before it's tightened and "pressed onto" and locked in place by the "wedging action" of the two "fits". |
|
|
|
On the SV, DL and Hayabusa engines, the Factory
Pro key is a special custom made "offset" type. When key is installed with offset to the LEFT (the same way the engine rotates), you are advancing the ignition timing. (normally, that's how you'd install). One end of the key slips into the crank's slot and the outer part shifts the flywheel over to rotate the flywheel (and the bumps on the perimeter that trigger the ignition pulses) to the left, in direction of engine rotation, to advance the ignition timing. You "could" install the key with the offset to the right to retard the timing, should you need to do that for nitrous or turbo apps. |
|
|
Reassembly: Make sure idler gear shaft is properly in place. Line up flywheel with key and jiggle till the flywheel engages properly with the starter clutch behind. Replace 17mm flywheel bolt, 87 ft/lbs is the book specified torque (some mechanics with good feel use an impact wrench). Replace the cover. Reinstall the cover bolts. 5-7ft/lbs is the torque. If you drained or lost any oil, CHECK AND REFILL THE OIL before starting!!!! |
