2008 S31 gsx1300 r,hayabusa, suzuki, carb, tuning, factory pro, carburetor, shift, ignition

08-09
GSX1300bk B-King

	up to +3 to +5 TRUE HP upper midrange Superflare Billet Velocity Stacks		Shift STAR kit for the B King
			S36 Ignition Advancer Kit

Superflare Billet Velocity Stacks

(sample pic, not of 08-09 B King - oem 13882-41G00)
up to +3 to +5 and more midrange hp
(if properly tested)
Easy 30 minute install, no drilling or cutting required

pn: VEL-S31-4545-50mm $379.95
Midrange power

You wanted a quick and easy boost in B King power without the downtime, expense and potential unreliability of big bore kits and heavy valve springs?

B-King Superflare V Stacks
"Midrange"

HEALTHY +3 to +5 True HP gain in the mid and upper midrange rpm when measured under a real load on a stock engine. We did not change fuel injection tuning. With the stacks, low rpm response is "tighter" and more responsive, too.

And! Bonus!
The High Velocity Superflares bring back that sweet, but discrete, high rpm intake "howl" that a well tuned engine should have!

Note: All testing done under fully loaded dyno conditions on EC997 Dyne systems to get proper HP production. Testing done on dealership level dynos "inertia" loading may appear to be lesser or greater amounts of power.
What works best under "inertia" dyno load is rarely what works best in the real world - That's why we never use common dealership level dynos for testing or feedback.

Drop-in them in an hour. Ride the bike.

Factory Pro Tuning Centers

(sample pic, not of 08-09 B King - oem 13882-41G00)

pn: VEL-S31-2525-v50 $379.95

High RPM power bias
"short stacks"

SHORT B-King Superflare V Stacks
High RPM power bias

(sample pic only - the short stacks are shorter)

High rpm bias short stacks 20mm to 30mm - for extending the powerband past where the stock bike tapers off in power at high rpm. Use for modified engines with extended rpm. Does NOT improve lowend and midrange. The short stacks take away a little lowend and put it up at high rpm, where the power (with stock stacks) is normally fading away in power.
But for most day to day riding, I'd use the 45mm stacks - more fun. Marc

If you want more low and mid, ask about our Factory Pro ECU Reflash.

marc@factorypro.com

Bonus.
The High Velocity Superflares bring back that sweet, but discrete, high rpm intake "howl" that a well tuned engine should have.

Drop-in them in an hour. Ride the bike.

Factory Pro Tuning Centers

Shift STAR kit for MUCH better and quicker shifting

SHFT-EVO-S92 / BKing

$199.95

Evo Shift STAR, F-Pro Shift Spring, shift cover gasket

Factory Pro's
EVO Shift STAR kit

The STAR, spring and shift cover gasket kit

Banish the "Busa Boot Shift" forever.

Includes Factory Pro's AWESOME Marc Salvisberg designed Detent Star - Totally changes the rough shifting the Busa's are well known for into the sweetest, smoothest shifting bike in town AND the quickest non-airshifting bike at the strip - you'll think you bought a different bike.

Better / quicker 1-2 shifts.
Virtually eliminate missed shifts - up and down.
Easier to find neutral.
Quicker 3rd through top gear shifts.
Perfect for drag racing and street.

Works with or without undercut transmission. Works with and without an air shifter. It makes a "foot" shift an extremely quick event - Almost eliminate a missed 2nd gear shift (though if you try, you can still miss it...)

In fact, I'd try the Factory Pro Shift STAR Kit before I pulled the engine down to "fix" the gear dogs - as long as the gears aren't damaged so much that the gears engage and then pop out at high rpm - that's symptom of rounded gear dogs.

Includes:
Factory Pro designed, refined, CNC machined, heat treated DETENT STAR.
Makes shifting quicker and more positive - "virtually" eliminating missed shifts. The stronger detent spring rotates the shift drum quicker and the gears are more likely to engage under quick shift conditions - and "lazy" shifts work well, too -
The closest to a "paddle shifter" for a motorcycle that you will ever find.

................................

B King Shift STAR Install notes:

Installation requires countershaft sprocket removal. Impact wrench recommended
8mm box wrench and socket set Most newer 12 point 8mm wrenches are thin enough to work in these close quarters.
Does not require case splitting.
Estimated shop time: 1.0 to 2.5 hours
Suggest to do when replacing chain and sprockets.

Remove the countershaft sprocket.
Loosen every bolt on the shifter cover.
Remove every bolt that you can get to.
There will be one or two bolts that the frame will be in the way.
Don't have to grind the frame......
Reach back, behind the cover and there will be one or twp small alignment dowels that are still stuck in the engine case. The height of the dowels is why you can't remove the cover (with the screw still installed)
Use needle nose pliers or "your choice of tools" to lift them out towards you.
Then, screws will have enough clearance to slide sideways, with the cover - and you can get to the STAR and Detent Arm.

It's possible that some individual frames may be bent and welded very slightly differently, but we haven't seen one, yet.

INSTALLATION SHEET, pics and more detail

RTR-SUZ-36-04 $89.95

The Factory Pro S36 Ignition Advance Kit advances the timing 4 degrees
(Power Commander Ignition Module notes: "says 10", but, "10 dynojet degrees" is only about 2 real degrees, as of April 2010)

Improves power and "snap", lowend and midrange and even a True horsepower or so at full throttle in a stock engine (meaning an engine with stock compression)

With stock engines with stock compression ratios, there is more power everywhere. Part throttle power is better - helping corner exit speeds. Improved in-town drivability.

It's 100% reliable, unlike electronic ignition boxes....
Use with or without a TRE -

This kit also fits the SV650 - and requires a 1/2" impact wrench to remove the flywheel with the supplied rotor puller.

Ignition Advance KEY, Installation SV650, SV1000 DL650 DL1000 Hayabusa installation and pictures

Of course, there's another way to do ign timing - Factory Pro's ECU Flash - Forget the ign advance kit, throw away the TRE. Can make better in ever gear with our Reflash.

marc@factorypro.com

Ignition Advance Install Hints SV650 DL650 SV1000 DL1000 and generally, 99-09 gsx1300r Hayabusa	NOTE! - This just an abbreviated guide with hints and some experience added It is suggested that you have a genuine Suzuki service manual to refer to at all times. If you have a question about ANYTHING or are unclear about what to do, call us, call your dealer, call somebody, call anybody, but don't think that you can't break anything, put something together wrong, hurt yourself, or worse, hurt somebody else. BE CAREFUL. Marc
tools 1/2" air or electric impact wrench 1/2" 17mm and 19mm sockets (use impact sockets for safety) 17mm box wrench grease plastic mallet (or reasonable facsimile)
To start REMOVE THE IGNITION KEY and either: 1. drain the oil 2. lean bike over to the right, so that 1 cup of oil doesn't leak out when you pull the cover.
	Here's the right side of a well used trackday bike that we were doing some work on. It makes pretty good power, with Twin Works (Zoran's) bored throttle bodies, mixed and matched intake cams and an exhaust system. We tuned custom length Factory Pro V stacks for it, tested The RTR-SUZ-36-04 +4 ignition advance key and tuned the PC3 for both R-Tech Pro V and pump premium. The stacks were good for 1-2 on top with the High Rpm setup and 4ish in the midrange with the midrange set. The Pro V was good for 1.7 TRUE HP (not dynojet hp) at high rpm.
	Remove the case screws. Tap with a plastic mallet to break the cover gasket free. fwiw, 90% of the time, the gasket won't break, but do you feel lucky? (have a spare gasket handy......)
	After it's free, wiggle and pull the cover off and swing it off to the back. Use a bungee cord to hold it back out of your way. No need to remove the clutch cable.
	Here's the infamous idler gear shaft. It usually sticks in the cover, and it would be best to pull it out of the cover now and stick it back through the idler gear in the engine case.
	Here it is, installed, at 9 o'clock, just to the left of the flywheel. To get the gear hole to line up with the crankcase hole, use a 17mm wrench to wiggle the crankshaft while "eye balling" the hole alignment, the gently inserting the idler shaft and wiggling the crank till it finally slips into place.
	Now, WITH A 1/2" impact wrench, unscrew the 17mm flywheel bolt.
	Now, lightly grease the initial threads on the flywheel puller and put a dab of grease on the face (like the mechanic is about to do). The grease is to lubricate the threads and crank face and help prevent galling when you are impacting the puller bolt
	19mm socket and 1/2" impact. Read below frame.
	Puller Background "Intro Course" The "taper fit" of the crank / internal rotor are EXTREMELY sensitive to ANY dimensional tolerance in the manufacturing process. 1.25% of the flywheels will surprisingly pop off with a single:"2-3 hit" and the other 1.25% will be tough. About 97.5% of the rotors will pop right off with a few short 3-4 hit Impact Wrench bursts. Some will sit there and not pop off after after 10-15 "3-4 pulse hit and waits", even after sitting there overnight with a tightened up puller. If, after overnight, and a few "hit and waits" in the AM, it still doesn't pop off (and you are using a proven strength 1/2" Impact Wrench), then I would suspect that you have one of the "tight" 1.25%'ers.and suggest 1 of 3 options. 1. Stop and give up. (You don't HAVE to have an ignition advance, do you?) 2. Unscrew the puller, re-grease and try a few more "hit and waits" in 10 hit increments, getting closer to stripping the puller and maybe the the flywheel threads (stripped threads are only actually expensive if you insist on pulling the flywheel, ever). 3. Call your friendly local dealer to do it, be honest and tell them what you are doing and tell them that the flywheel isn't popping off. and a 4th option that's not 1 of the 3 good options: 4. Put it all back to together and don't tell the dealer that the flywheel wasn't popping off. That's got you a good chance of them, working in good faith, stripping the flywheel, because they don't know that the flywheel is a "tight one". I've run into only a couple flywheels in SV/DL's that just refused to pop off (out of literally 100's), even after 10 hit increments, an "overnight" and a few more hits during the next day. I eventually deferred to option 1 (you don't REALLY have to have an ignition advance, do you?). But I do remember a flywheel that popped off after a couple DAYS of patient "hit and waits!) Now that I've scared you........ the SV type engines are usually OK. Marc
	If you are lucky, the key will be at about 12 o'clock. If not, put the flywheel back on, the bolt back in lightly impact it in and use a 17mm wrench to turn the crank to put the keyway slot at 12 o'clock. Then remove the flywheel again. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE IDLER SHAFT INSTALLED when you turn the crank or THINGS WILL BREAK! The IS a mark on the flywheel that you could use to line up so that the keyway is at 12 o'clock before you pull the flywheel, but...... I forgot to take a picture of it before I left the shop. If you can help with that, email me
	The stock woodruff key may be stuck in the crank slot. A few light taps will help. Be careful to prevent the key from bouncing down, behind the starter clutch gear and into the nether regions of your dark, unreachable voids of your crankcases.
	Woodruff Key Primer A Woodruff key or half-moon key, is a semicircular shaped, removable key that fits into a matching keyway cut into a shaft, leaving a protruding tab. The tab mates with a matching slot on a device mounted flush upon the shaft e.g. a pulley, thus preventing the device from freely rotating about the shaft. It is widely used in machine tools and in the automotive industry. This type of key was developed by W.N. Woodruff of Connecticut, who was presented in 1888 with the John Scott Medal by the Franklin Institute for the invention.^[1] from Wikipedia When a woodruff key is used on a tapered shaft fit (like the tapered shaft on the crank and the flywheel), the key is actually only used for lining up the shaft and flywheel before it's tightened and "pressed onto" and locked in place by the "wedging action" of the two "fits".
	On the SV, DL and Hayabusa engines, the Factory Pro key is a special custom made "offset" type. When key is installed with offset to the LEFT (the same way the engine rotates), you are advancing the ignition timing. (normally, that's how you'd install). One end of the key slips into the crank's slot and the outer part shifts the flywheel over to rotate the flywheel (and the bumps on the perimeter that trigger the ignition pulses) to the left, in direction of engine rotation, to advance the ignition timing. You "could" install the key with the offset to the right to retard the timing, should you need to do that for nitrous or turbo apps.
	Reassembly: Make sure idler gear shaft is properly in place. Line up flywheel with key and jiggle till the flywheel engages properly with the starter clutch behind. Replace 17mm flywheel bolt, 87 ft/lbs is the book specified torque (some mechanics with good feel use an impact wrench). Replace the cover. Reinstall the cover bolts. 5-7ft/lbs is the torque. If you drained or lost any oil, CHECK AND REFILL THE OIL before starting!!!!

True Rear Wheel Horsepower - Factory EC997a Eddy Current Dynamometer