up to +4 to +8 TRUE HP upper midrange
Billet Velocity Stacks
low and mid
S36 Ignition Advancer Kit
and fewer missed shifts
Shift STAR kit for the Busa
stock ecu - no pc3/5 required
Teka SFI Suzuki Fuel Injection Adjusting Tool
|Superflare Billet Velocity Stacks|
up to +4 to +8 midrange hp.
(if properly tested and tuned)
You wanted a big boost in Busa power without
the downtime, expense and potential unreliability of big bore kits and
heavy valve springs?
Hayabusa Superflare V Stacks
Marc Salvisberg of Factory
Pro designed and tested. Patented
Note: All testing done under fully loaded dyno
systems to get proper HP production. Testing done on dealership
level dynos "inertia" loading may appear to be lesser or greater amounts
Drop-in them in an hour. Ride the bike.
Tired of looking at kludged injector mounts?
1/8" Nitrous tapped billet V Stacks
Provides a solid, tapped NOS mounting
Ok.... Techy Stuff
The stock Suzuki and the "short" Suzuki gsxr750 48mm ID stacks are poorly shaped and the "other" aftermarket 50mm ID stacks are simply not what an engine wants. Even if 50mm was better than 48 (and it's not...) why wouldn't we make 52mm and they'd be even better (52's are even worse than 50's on a engine, btw!)
What Factory Pro made was what the engine's intake tract actually wanted with stock diameter throttle bodies.
So, in jest, STOP calling up and asking "How big are they?" as if you knew that bigger is better..... In an engine, proper matching of engine requirements is the key to making Best Power and if they wanted to be a bigger Inner Diameter, we would have made bigger.... It's only a slight change in CNC programming....
Ok - If you REALLY want, I'll make some 52's special for you and they will work even worse than the "other" 50mm aftermarket stacks.....
To prove that "bigger isn't automatically better...... Our TopKick, dropin cams and or Superflare Stacks made the same or better peak power than that properly remapped 1397cc, milled, ported, valve springed, cammed engine......
SHOULD a stock bore, unported engine make better
power than a big bore, ported engine?
Bigger isn't Better when it doesn't fit the application.........
Our own testing:
2007 February 2
even though the dj dyno's
aren't very reliable for HIGH hp levels, esp. at high rpm on large,
bikes, here's one that worked well - So - even though.... I'll take
This looks like Yosh Stage 1 cams,
Ti Force exhaust, and some airbox mod
Less than an hour - under $250.
10.5k real rpm (as shown on this dynojet graph) is actually banging off the rev limiter.= and that's not how most people ride - even pro drag racers......
The average HP, across the top, is much better with the stacks.
Shift STAR kit for smoother and quicker shifting with fewer missed shifts
(sample Star kit pic)
October 10, 2006
Banish the "Busa Boot" shift forever.
Decrease Quick shifter "shift kill duration"
for drag racing - better ET.
Perfect for drag racing
Hayabusa Shift STAR Install notes:
Installation requires countershaft
sprocket removal. Impact wrench recommended
Remove the countershaft sprocket.
It's possible that some individual frames may be bent and welded very slightly differently, but we haven't seen one, yet.
Teka SFI - THE solution for quick fuel injection changes
MMT Power Tuner
After tuning with a Teka SFI 2,
MMT plugs right in to the bikes tuning port (same as the SFI).
If tuning with the SFI 2 / MMT combination:
If tuning with the MMT only (without custom SFI
If you first install an MMT and decide the have
it custom tuned with the SFI 2, no problem.
Then, you still have the ability to "trim" map for conditions with the Power Select Switch - and you even have, by setting it at "0", to recheck how the "zero" map was in comparison to your "SFI Tuned Map".
EZ install - all stock connectors, no splicing.
|Ignition Advance Kit - Boost low and midrange power - Better launches|
The Factory Pro
S36 Ignition Advance Kit advances
the timing 5 degrees!
Improves power and "snap", lowend and midrange and even a True horsepower or so at full throttle in a stock engine (meaning an engine with stock compression)
With stock engines with stock compression ratios, there is more power everywhere. Part throttle power is better - helping corner exit speeds. Improved in-town drivability.
It's 100% reliable, unlike
electronic ignition boxes....
Here's dyno chart showing adding an
RTR-SUZ-36-04 to a properly tuned Hayabusa.
This bike already had a pipe, Factory Pro Superflare Stacks, a K&N air filter and no additional FI tuning was done
Customer's bikes from around the world
firstname.lastname@example.org to submit pictures
ECTA Land Speed record holder
Photo by David Wheeler
DW Photo website
It pulls so hard, that it will walk away from any stock motored Busa.
It has crazy power off the line and top end is stupid fast. I am getting 178 HP to the crank with 101 FPT.
My Bike is a monster, and I love it.
Thanks for producing such a fine quality product.
2007 October 21
hey marc ,
just dropping you a line to let you know
i fitted your Superflare velocity stacks, we put the Busa on the dyno, initially it showed a drop of about 2 horsepower ,ray ran it up on the dyno and played with the power commander, we got an extra 2.6 horsepower better than before we fitted the stacks, more important than that was the torque was widened and increased the bike's grunt. best, [cheapest] per hp money i ever spent. it s really pleasing to buy something that actually does what it says.
i will be telling my friends,
cheers, derek nagy :-)
Click the picture to find out
Why are we the only people to know that it makes less power????
|We'll start with the assumption that you already
can competently remove the fuel tank and airbox. If you aren't confident
that you can do that, stop right now and get an experienced friend or
After you have the airbox removed, (ok, one hint is that the throttle body clamps clamp the airbox rubbers to the throttle bodies). - look at the stock rubbers from the bottom side - they are "offset" in the hole.
Remove the stock rubber velocity stacks. They are
semi glued in with what looks like a light latex glue, so you'll have
to kinda push the outer edge inwards till they collapse in on themselves
- then push them on out.
|Look at the Factory Pro adapter rubbers. You'll see
that our rubber adapter rubbers are "offset" to one side, just like
the stock ones.
Flip the airbox upside down.
Usually, there will be a dab of paint
on the new adapter rubbers that you'll line up to the 2 index marks
cast into the bottom of the airbox.
To glue or not to glue the new adapters?
I don't glue them. They seal relatively perfectly at the airbox and then they clamp onto the throttle bodies. What more could you want? They can't rotate in the hole if they are clamped to the throttle bodies.....
|Feed the new rubber adapter into the airbox.
Note! The patented stack's "Throttle Body Stuffer" tongue goes into the stock throttle bodies, retaining more laminar air flow and conserving refracting wave potential. So.... make sure the stuffer tongue is on the outside of the airbox.
If the paint dab wanders away from the index marks on the airbox, no worries (as they say down there) - Once you get the inside and outside lips "happy" above and below the airbox hole, we left just a slight amount of "wiggle room" and you can just rotate the rubbers back into alignment.
|This is what it should look like.
Skinny side next to the airbox index marks and thick side of the adapter rubbers - away from the airbox marks - towards the front of the airbox / bike.
Stuffer tongue ready to insert into the throttle bodies.
|This is the inside of the airbox view.
You can see the retaining female groove on the Factory Pro stack and if you were playing with the adapter rubbers and the stacks before you put them in, you'll have seen how the patented clampless retaining system works.
Finally, a real use for "Liplock".
You can either install the airbox onto the bike now
and put the aluminum stacks on later - that makes putting the stacks
into the rubbers easier by keeping the rubber from rotating in the airbox
hole - OR - you can install the stacks into the rubbers and reorient
the rubbers again before you reinstall the airbox.
|The early bikes have a 2 piece airbox and the later
ones have a glued together airbox. The one piece airbox is a bit more
difficult to install the alloy stacks, especially if you've got large
hands - but, still relatively easy to do. Especially considering the
|Anyhow..... inserting the stacks into the rubbers.....
If you are feeling the need for some lubrication, use a temporary water based lube, not oil based.
|Wiggle, wobble, twist, and or manipulate the alloy
stacks till they look like this.
Once again, if the rubbers rotated in the airbox hole, just rotate them back to reindex them.
|This is what your 2 piece Hayabusa airbox looks like
with a BMC RACE filter and
Factory Pro Billet Velocity Stacks installed.
The one piece airbox looks the same except you can't see the inside.
|So - the hard part, installing
the stacks, is done.
Now - if the airbox isn't already installed, just reassemble the airbox, put the stock throttle body clamps back onto the new adapter rubbers and put it back on the bike - along with the other parts that you took off.
Yes - we always suggest that you use a Genuine Suzuki Service Manual. It's the LAST WORD.
With new Superflare stacks -
Is fuel injection retuning needed?
We did the Superflaretm
R&D with a properly tuned stock Hayabusa with a pipe on it. We did no
additional fuel injection mapping during stack R&D - beyond originally
tuning the "stock stacked" bike to
settings in the first place.
Could you get better performance if custom mapping
for the stacks?
Bikes from around the world - email here email@example.com
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|The extension of the laboratory
for engines of the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology was completed
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Edited to the tunes of Chemical Residue by Herbie Hancock.
Maybe in next rewrite, he'll fix the ignition timing and dyno chapters...
Otherwise great book with great starting ideas.
The little blue bible for quick references and little known facts.