Factory Pro Superflare Billet Velocity Stacks

Another great power product from the only mc focused company in the world that produces a large variety of tuning products AND supports good product development by producing the most sensitive of chassis dynamometers, the EC997 Low Inertia Dyne Systems - the same EC997 dyno system that F-USA and ASRA use to police power levels in HP race classes.
EC997's are the dyno of choice for USA #1 Vesrah Racing,  Jordan Racing and Suzuki NZ.

In just 45 minutes and regular hand tools, these new Factory Pro designed Superflare billet stacks will provide 2-4 True HP, generally even without retuning.
That's what we got when we did R&D on a stock engined DL that had a common competition exhaust system installed.
We'd expect about the same improvement in results with an DL with a street exhaust system or even the stock exhaust system.

The DL True HP chart   >>>>>>

It's a:
DL1000, with stock exhaust system, SNORKEL REMOVED, FI system NOT retuned (but mixture is "close")

RED>>>>>
 35/70 Factory Pro stacks,
SNORKEL REMOVED, not FI retuned, even though it's a bit too rich.

BLUE>>>>
stock rubber Suzuki stacks
and still,
SNORKEL REMOVED and still not FI retuned

Results:
The Factory Pro Superflares stacks show a needed 3 True HP boost at peak at 7,000 rpm indicated and a nice boost throughout the powerband - especially at 6,000 rpm, where it gained 5-7 True HP
(I was surprised, too - but - there's plenty of additional fully loaded dyno tests that back up the gains. Marc)

VEL-S51-3570   $129.95

You wonder.... Why does the power drop off so much after 7,000 rpm? It's a weird, unnatural way for an engine to work!?

Well, Billy, it's like this......
The secondary butterflies begin to close back down around 7,000 rpm, cutting off airflow and horsepower. Why did they do that?
"Mongo not know - only pawn in game of life......"

So! Here's a True HP dyno chart with GREEN, being, simply removing the secondary butterfly PLATES (not the whole shaft, which would cause FI error code 29). Rather enticing, eh!?!

Double BUT!
If you remove the secondary plates, the high rpm fuel delivery leans WAAAY out (VERY BAD), as you can see on the lower green CO% trace and  you MUST retune the FI with a Teka 4 FI Module (800 869-0497 to order), or if you  MUST, a PC3.
You need a "mappable device" to address the leanness that's only at certain rpms (8,000 - 9,000 rpm)

Here's what it looks like if you:
Had a DL with the snorkel removed
added the Superflares, then
removed the secondary plates
 AND then
retuned to Best Power
(NOT tune "to an air fuel ratio)
with a Teka 4usb on an EC997 dyne system.

up to 7 to 8 True HP peak improvement
(the correct way to state Hp increases)

and......

+4 to 5 at 5,000
+5 to 6 at 6,000
+8 to 9 at 7000
+18 to 19 at 8,000
+23 to 24 at 9,000

It could even be a bit better with the addition of the below mentioned Ignition Advance Kit
 

Factory Pro Shift STAR kit - MUCH improved shifting

EVO Detent Star Kit - Improved 2007!

$169.95

EVO-7    Shift STAR Kit!

Includes Factory's AWESOME Detent Star - Totally changes the rough in town shifting the Suzuki's are known for into the sweetest shifting bike - The one you've always wanted!
In town shifting is effortless and slick - on track or when high speed - a shift is a light tap and it's done. No bike "unsettling".

 Imagine,
 last lap, last corner, 110 mph, two wheel drift... passing on the outside, bike carefully controlled by just the subtlest of weight transfer and just a "fingers touch" on the throttle... you run out of rpm and need to upshift to complete the pass.... you need to shift.... it's ok.... a tap and you are in the 4th, still in a drift....... you keep slightly pulling... around.... slowly past....you win...... 
(OK - it's a DL.......  :-)

Includes:
Factory Pro designed, refined and manufactured DETENT STAR, Factory Pro Microbearing Detent Arm, heavy duty detent spring and gasket. Makes shifting quicker and more positive - "virtually" eliminating those nasty missed shifts. The stronger detent spring rotates the shift drum quicker, so the gears are more likely to engage under quick shift conditions - and "lazy" ones, too -
The Factory Pro Microbearing removes friction for the quickest shifting.
The STAR? Makes it AWESOMELY nice.
The closest to a "paddle shifter" for a motorcycle that you will ever find!!

Factory Pro Ignition Advance Kit

 RTR-SUZ-36-04

 Ignition Advance Kit

$79.95

Use this kit to advance the ignition timing 4 degrees for more power at part throttle and at full throttle.
Install the key with offset to the LEFT to advance the timing!
For easiest, quickest install - we suggest that you have access to an air or electric impact impact wrench - That makes it simple to remove the rotor bolt with an air impact wrench --
Kit includes special key AND Factory Pro's own heat treated, tool steel, plated rotor puller.
Replaces OEM #09420-04008
Fits:
TL1000s
TL1000r
SV1000
SV650
Hayabusa 1300

Takes about 1/2 hour to install and adds 1-2 True HP.

.............................

Power Commander Ignition Module Notes

In my experience, the $350 Power Commander Ignition module "says" +/- "10", but it really only seems to change the ignition timing about +/-2-3 degrees (as of at least 02/09).  This was backed up by a DJ importer's experience.
According to a customer, dj told him  that ignition timing, doesn't affect power very much.
That's just wrong.
Factory Pro has over 30 years of research and development in high accuracy tuning in general and 20 years in producing Ignition Advancers (which REALLY DO change the ignition timing!)  and we've been producing dynamometers that read to .1 and .2 HP increments.

Testing on real load dyno, under realistic load, multiple DJ Ignition Modules on 600's and 1000's show that DJ +10  to DJ -10 "DJ degrees" equals aromd a 1% to 2% HP spread.
How could you change ignition timing a supposed "TWENTY DEGREES" and only affect the HP by 1% to 2%????

You can't change the ignition timing 20 degrees and only affect the power by a couple percent -  That's an obvious fact.
If you had "Best Power" ignition timing set and you retard or advance the timing a REAL 10 degrees, the bike world hardly run, losing around 10% - 20% True HP  if you retarded it.
if you advanced it a real 10 degrees, you'd lose a bunch of power, too and also, likely, give it fits of detonation.

Now - I'm still perplexed about the guy who posted that he gained 7 HP on his dynojet dyno with a "+5" setting on his DJ Ign Module!  - .5 DJ degrees /  about 1 REAL degree = 5 hp? and also perplexed about the ignition map that I got from a DJ sponsored Race team that showed +1 and +2 and -1's in their "official"  map! Lessee? They changed the ignition timing a miniscule  real .2 degree and they could see that hp change?
The 06 R6 that we were working on? It actually wanted more than 10 "dynojet degrees" in quite a few every part throttle positions for Best Power settings and all of the full throttle settings ended up at +5 to +10 "dynojet degrees". Compare that to the zero settings at full throttle that were supplied and the +1, +2 an +3 "dj degree" settings that were supplied.

A significant ignition timing change, that power can be measured would MAYBE be a real 1 degree - but you can only measure the HP change if the fuel mixture is absolutely PERFECT for Best power (NOT to misleading dealership level "AFR tuning") already -

 Normally, a REAL 2 degrees ignition timing change will change the power (on a Perfectly fueled engine) by about 1%.

(example 100 True HP > 101 True HP if a "good direction change" OR 99 True HP if it was "the wrong 2 deg direction change").

So - the only reason to run a DJ Ignition Module is to use a DJ Quickshifter (until the TEKA 4 QS upgrade is released)
 the DJ Ignition function is, otherwise, essentially $350 useless cost.

When tuning on and EC997 dyno, (which has the capability of measuring .1 to .2 HP changes), essentially, there are only a couple of DJ Ign Module settings:
Zero
+ or - 5 Dynojet degrees or
+ or 1 10 Dynojet degrees
and maybe "7" if "5" and "10" make the same power
Don't expect huge HP changes - as, as described above, you'll see 1 or 2 hp at best (at least on a real dyno)

So - what does that tell you?
That you need to do testing on a high quality dyne system, like the Factory Pro EC997 .
Then, you too, can learn all these "unpopular" facts!
Like inertia HP isn't real HP in the real world, dj hp numbers are bogus, tuning to an AFR for best performance is a myth....
Join Jordan Racing and Vesrah Racing and Suzuki NZ -

(I'm sure that the guy who got "7 DJHP" with a real 1 degree (aka: 5 Dynojet degrees)  isn't my buddy right about now, though....)
 

Best regards - Marc
 

Teka SFI (Suzuki FI Adjuster Tool)

fuel injection

$695

call
800 869-0497

works on TLs, gsxr's, Busa's!

Hook it up - richen or lean it -
unhook and ride!

30 seconds.

Teka  SFI Suzuki Fuel Injection Adjusting Tool

Taking the tuning industry by storm!

Easy to tune the R's and S's with the same unit - Improves low rpm over pc's and stock!
Wider range with fine increments - perfect for late model FI Suzuki motorcycles. Most reliable of all FI fueling tuning tools. 
Teka allows the user to dial in Suzuki fuel injection systems. Adjusts low speed / idle (unlike other units, like power commanders) and also adjusts different ranges of throttle opening, up to and including full throttle - and does it ON THE FLY!
IDLE CIRCUIT: Make changes as bike is running, real time, unlike other FI adjuster boxes - absolutely saving time when adjusting the low speed mixture. Select a cylinder and make it richer or leaner - as the bike is idling. Just like adjusting fuel screws - except you don't get your hands dirty!  Makes idle adjustment a 3 minute joy instead of a 15 minute, vague, aggravation!
RUN CIRCUIT RANGE: Make changes as bike is running - on road or dyno. Teka extends the range, as compared to Yosh/Denso box, from equivalent max. 10 to max. ~20 for those high hp applications and when you need more fuel, like our 2000 model GSX-R750 that thrived on +5 at part throttle, +15 at Mid Throttle, and -2 at Full Throttle. 
RUN CIRCUIT INCREMENTS:
Teka provides smaller throttle position increments, too. 1% to 10%, 11% to 25%,26% to 50%, 51% to 75% and 76% to 100% in proto Teka. Addresses Hayabusa off-idle glitches, where you need to richen up the "very small throttle opening" or just above that to address "hiccups".
Check the fueling on your local Low Inertia 4-Gas EC997 eddy-current dyno, adjust the stock ECU for maximum power, set it and take your Teka Fuel Injection Programmer away with you.  That's good for 1-2 True HP over pc2 on a Hayabusa installation when tested under load on real dyno.

Compliments to Catfish!

 



BMC air  filter system

True Rear Wheel Horsepowertm scale - difference between other scales.

FI-BMC-14101S
FI-BMC-14101R
TL1000S

FI-BMC-16304S
FI-BMC-16304R
TL1000R

$49-95-$89.95
depending on model

~$3.00

~$10.00

It doesn't raise the maximum coolant temperature, only the lowest temperature allowed by the thermostat.

The TL's that we've worked with had a running range of ~40f - from 165f-170f cruising down the highway on a cool day to 200f-205f in ~25mph traffic at <3000rpm. At that spread of temperatures, the TL's FI system didn't correct adequately, allowing rich and lean problems to appear and disappear as the coolant temp changed.

There are several solutions if there is are tuning problems caused by excessive coolant temp range.

Replacing the thermostat with a higher minimum temp unit, perhaps 185f. Easy to do.

The water pump doesn't pump much below 3000rpm, so "blipping" the throttle above 3k occasionally when in traffic helps move the coolant through the radiator and lower the temp - decreasing the coolant temperature.

Replacing the ECU (not an add-on box) with a unit that has programmable coolant temp adjustments (like ours).