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Yamaha fzr600
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Factory Pro's Supersport Carb Recal kit #1 Internet choice. |
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Factory Pro's Pro Shift Kit Much improved shifting! |
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Factory Pro's Ignition Advance Kit The only source in the world! |
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Factory Pro's Nickel plated emulsion tubes (needle jets) The BEST! |
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Factory Pro nickel plated FZR600 Emulsion Tubes (needle jets) |
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(yam: 3EN-14141-90-00) FZR600 $112.00 set of 4 |
Ok - The average fzr600 has accumulated a large
number of miles - and by now, most of them have carbs on them that have
really funky super-rich low rpm running "feature". Sound like yours? 99% of the time, on an fzr600 with over 10,000m
/ 15,000km on the speedo (even if there is still one there!), the needle
jet orifice part of the "emulsion tube" probably looks like an egg. That will allow too much fuel to rise up into the bore of the carb and pretty much drown out the engine's power and cause sloppy rich, sloggy running.... (Wow! Sound like yours?) Since Yamaha, according to a recent dealer, doesn't import them anymore, Factory Pro analyzed and redesigned replacements with some notable, 20th century improvements - particularly plating (like all new carbs have...). A suggestion? Before you start trying to make your FZR run right or even attempt to properly jet, replace these parts!!! Please? :-) Marc Just got back from the first ride with my new Factory
Pro emulsion tubes installed on my FZR600. Thanks for a
new motorcycle! It is unbelievable how smooth the bike is now,
no more hiccups from 2-4k rpm. I thought they were expensive at
first, but they are worth every penny. Very VERY easy install.
Thank you for making such a terrific product!
The "V" shows all that is considered to be "bad" wear. |
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CRB-Y02-1.0 Standard drop-in carb kit $139.95 |
Adds more low-end / midrange, if the proper main jet is selected, more top-end power. Easy to install and tune - no slide drilling! Our most popular fzr600 kit. |
 CRB-Y02-1.1-TI Ti ProKit carb kit $159.95 |
Titanium needles and Stainless steel allen screws for the float bowls. Adds more low-end / midrange, if the proper main jet is selected, more top-end power. Easy to install and tune - no slide drilling! My suggestion |
CRB-Y02-3.0 $129.95 + ~$125 air filters $259.95 |
Requires removal of stock airbox and running K&N or equivalent individual air filters. Otherwise, it is a drop-in kit. Low-end response is as good as, if not better than stock carb tuning. Works well - If you actually tune the fuel level (as is the case with the above "10 Series" and such), Low-end power is actually as good as or even better than with the stock airbox installed. Urban legend that "the lowend goes away" when you remove the airbox on the fzr's are utterly and absolutely, completely the result of poor choice in jet kit brand, and after that, tuning ability / desire / motivation - which pretty much comes down to setting float heights and looking at needle jet wear. It's amazing, but over the years, many a motivated
owner has done a far better job by test riding the bike than a lot of
un-motivated "tuners" with dealership level dynos......
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| Air filters, BMC | |
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FI-BMC-17407SS
$59.95 |
NEW Factory Pro BMC Street air filter
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| RTR-YAM-1 $74.95 |
This Factory Pro FZR 600 kit advances the timing 5 degrees. With stock engines with stock compression ratios, there is more power everywhere. Part throttle power is better - helping corner exit speeds. Improved in-town drivability. Every fzr600 that we do here gets one. |
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Make shifting MUCH quicker and virtually eliminate missed shifts.
This is exactly the same kit that Yamaha Racing has used. Huge shift
action improvement. |
 COV-Y01-RH-KT $149.95 Billet Engine Covers |
RH Cover for the FZR400/FZR600, complete with steel "Skidz" cover insert. Absolutely the strongest cover you can buy - and has the highest strength / weight ratio available! Individual replacement cover parts available direct from Factory. This cover saved more engines than I can count! The stock cover, would do nasty things, like
grind through, scoop in a teaspoon of sand, and then "moosh" the aluminum
back together - so it looked like it "almost went through". |
| ACM Kit Alternator Removal Kit $429.95 |
Removes 3.5 lb. alternator
rotor (NO charging system) and replaces it with a total loss 8oz. trigger
rotor, similar to Yamaha Race Kit unit. Not for street use. Fits FZR400,
89-90, FZR600(US), 89-99. NA |
 TL-float height gauge $59.95 |
The only way to accurately measure float heights. Works on nearly every carburetor. |
True Rear Wheel Horsepower® Factory EC997a® Eddy Current Dynamometer
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Yamaha factory manual recommended "measure the fuel level" method of
setting float heights got you down? Hmmm....setting them to so specified fuel level doesn't mean that
you are actually giving the bike what it wants. It just means you are
doing a good job of setting the fuel levels equally. We can get elegant later - Right, now, let's rough them in - If the floats are in reasonable shape, the float height and the fuel level measurements will be pretty damn close for tuning purposes. Example: All fuel levels set at .5mm above the fuel level line, and it's too
rich at low rpms isn't even close to how much better the bike would
be if you set the floats at 25mm (even if they are a silly 1/4mm different,
carb to carb...) |
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| float height method | aprox. equivalent FUEL LEVEL | fuel delivery |
| 22mm | +4.0mm above fuel level line | RICHER at low rpm |
| 23mm | +2.5mm above fuel level line | |
| 24mm | +1.0mm above fuel level line | |
| 25mm | -0.50mm below fuel level line | |
| 25.5mm | -1.25mm below fuel level line | LEANER at low rpm |
Now.... I listed out RICHER and LEANER in those natural hot and cold colors for you - BUT!!! That only means that the carburetion will get richer or leaner, especially at low rpm and cruise - It NOT to say that the carburetion WILL BE too rich or too lean FOR YOUR bike if you set it to 22mm or 25mm... If the bike is too rich at low rpm, check to see what the floats
are set at - if it's too rich and they are set at 23mm, change them
to 24mm and try that. If that's better, but, not enough, try 25mm. Generally, I would say that if you set the floats at 25mm, and it's
still sloppy rich at low rpm and cruise, especially when it's hot -
Replace the emulsion tubes (needle jets). Marc |
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Below is a Reprint with additions
and corrections
(some SR links will become nonfunctional as SR changes
their site periodically)
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| This Old Bike:
Fizzy Pop Performance Upgrades for Yamaha's FZR600
By Andrew Trevitt It seems like just yesterday that our man Kento won the Willow Springs ARRA championship on an FZR600, while geek-boy Trevitt was trying his hand at endurance racing on an FZR, too. Really though, both editors are showing their gray hairs, and it was way back in 1989 that the little Yamaha was first introduced. We borrowed this 1996 sample from Erica Polites, who brightened up the Primedia dungeon for a short time before moving on to work at Vance & Hines. Erica's bike was in desperate need of a little TLC, and well, who can resist a little tweaking here and there?
Correction: The needle jets (commonly called "emulsion tubes") were new Factory Pro design, using modern, updated concepts, not Yamaha supplied parts - they retail for about $100 set. They are not Factory Pro HDJ style, but, like the HDJ, feature a tougher, plated surface, rather than the softer brass as the originals and should last at least as long as the original needle jets, even with normal carb body slide guide wear. )
While we didn't update the suspension on the FZR, there are many options available in that department, as the FZR has a long racing history. Up front, the fork tubes were flushed and filled with thicker oil to stiffen the front end a bit, but otherwise we left well enough alone. The next step would be a replacement shock and stiffer fork springs along with Race-Tech's cartridge emulators. Going further, many FZR owners have replaced the stock swingarm with an FZR400 unit (lighter and stronger) and added a fork brace up front. Once the little FZR's makeover was complete, the engine ran noticeably smoother and crisper than previously. It feels much more responsive, and pulls harder in the midrange. The Vance & Hines exhaust is nice and quiet when puttering about town, only getting progressively louder the more revs are used. Our SuperFlow dyno is offline temporarily, but we'll have a chart showing pre- and post-modification traces in the next installment of This Old Bike. The DP brake pads are a huge improvement, and up front the new pads offer the usual sintered-pad characteristics of good progressivity and feel, along with excellent stopping power. The front brakes felt quite grabby at first, but surprisingly it turned out to be caused by the lever's pivot, which was dry and binding. A quick clean and a spot of grease made a big difference there. Out back, the DP standard rear pads were initially grabby, but now broken in provide good feel and feedback. Even with the thicker front fork oil, the front end still dives under braking more than we'd like. Rider's weighing more than about 150 pounds will most likely need stiffer springs along with 20-weight fluid instead of the 15/20-weight mix we used. Still, for almost 16,000 miles of use, the FZR's fork and stock shock work surprisingly well. It didn't take much to have the Yamaha looking and performing better than new, and even though the FZR600 is three generations old now, it's still a fun, sporting package. According to the Blue Book (www.kbb.com), used FZR600's range from $2300 (1989 model) to $4620 (1999 model). Addition:
When we finished Erica Polites' Yamaha FZR600 for last issue's This Old Bike, our dyno was temporarily unavailable and we couldn't include a chart with the story. Plus, we had some jetting woes to sort out, as the bike was running rich with even stock jetting. The final dyno run shows a peak of 75 horsepower, good for a California-spec FZR, and way better than what we saw before the modifications. Needless to say, Erica is happy with her transformed FZR. Addition:
The VHR SS2r STREET exhaust is about as restrictive as the stock muffler,
as far as the carburetor is concerned - Got an old bike? We're looking for older sportbikes in the Los Angeles area to feature in This Old Bike. If you have a mechanically sound bike you feel would be a good candidate, send a picture and details to Sport Rider, Attn: This Old Bike, 6420 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles CA 90048-5515 or e-mail srweb@primedia.com. This article originally appeared in the August 2002 issue of Sport Rider. |
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Bike pics from owners! |
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Les Gaskell's UK model 89 FZR600, before |
 After 05/2005 |
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 VeNoM Netherlans, before |
 after (Sept 2005) |
