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Yamaha FZR1000, 89-96 |
| part number | description | |||
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Needle jet - 100120K (also called emulsion tube) See desc. needle jet desc
$24ea / $96 set of 4 |
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Factory Pro manufactures
replacement needle jets! The
needle jet orifice wears oblong in as little as 5,000 - 10,000 miles on 38mm
Mikuni's and is particularly aggravated
by "in town", low rpm operation. The result is excessive richness at low rpm
that can be partially compensated for by lowering the fuel level. |
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![]() CRB-Y06-1.0 $129.95 |
Boosts power a bit at full
throttle, improves throttle response - especially at low rpm and part throttle, smoothing
power delivery. Engine runs a bit cooler and smoother. No slide drilling required. |
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![]() CRB-Y06-1.1-TI $149.95 |
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Ti ProKit |
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![]() CRB-Y06-3.0 $129.95 w/o filters |
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Config 30 Carb Recal Kit |
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![]() FI-BMC-#3092 air filter set for #3.0 kit $124.95 |
Cleanable, Dual Style BMC
filters feature more surface area than other filters for less intake restriction and up to
2hp additional on the fzr1000 as compared to other cleanable, gauze type filters. If you have inspected a set of used, non-BMC clamp-on dual inlet air filters, you will likely notice that the inside rubber flange was pulled up and distorted when the clamps were tightened. The BMC filter is spaced more properly for the FZR as compared to other brands of individual air filters and doesn't distort air filter flanges, lessening the chance of allowing unfiltered air to enter the engine. FYI: BMC-3092 specs: 61mm carb bellmouth OD, 25mm between carbs, 85mm center to center dist. |
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| . | outer Bell diameter | inside width,
bell OD. to bell OD. |
outer Bell diameter | |
| stock CV Carb | 60mm | 25mm | 60mm | |
| BMC | ~61mm | ~25mm | ~61mm | |
| other gauze | ~61mm | ~23-24mm | ~61mm | |
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RA-CAMSPKT-Y05A Cam Sprockets
$59.95 set for 2 cams
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Adjustable Cam Sprockets for
serious
tuners and serious home builders. One set of 2 pcs for each bike. |
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![]() SHFT-PRO-YAM-4 $89.95 |
![]() Pro Transmission Detent Arm Kit Includes Factory Pro Microbearing Detent Arm, heavy duty detent spring and gasket. Makes
shifting more positive at the expense of slightly stiffer shift lever action. The stronger
detent spring rotates the shift drum quicker, so the gears are more likely to engage under
quick shift conditions. The Microbearing removes friction for the quickest shifting short
of an air shifter. |
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![]() SHFT-YAM-4 $39.95 |
![]() STD transmission detent spring kit Includes Heavy duty detent spring and gasket. Makes shifting more positive at the expense of slightly stiffer shift lever action. The stronger detent spring rotates the shift drum quicker, so the gears are more likely to engage under quick shift conditions. Especially helpful in decreasing the 2nd gear and shift fork wear that the FZR1000's are known for. |
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The only way to accurately measure float heights in mm. Works on nearly every carburetor. Marc recommends. |
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Yamaha Yam pn: 3GM-14141-94-00
38mm CV |
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Factory Pro nickel plated replacements in stock
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CRZ-EMU-100120k $96 / 4pcs |

LINKS
| Float Height Setting Trick for 38mm "Mik's" | |
| One of the problems with
setting the float height on the 38mm downdraft Mikuni's that come on
Ducati's, yzf 750's, tdm 850's and fzr1000's, is that the darn white
plastic "float cage" keeps popping out of the carb body unless you
hold it in. When you hold it in with your fingers, you always flex the cage frame and distort the reading that you are setting the float height at..... Aaarrggghhh!! :-) After spending 45 minutes setting some yzf750 carbs in the sweltering Mid Ohio heat of summer, I decided to make a float cage holder and sell 'em! I'd make a million $$!! |
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| When I got back to work, I
set up and made a pile of cute little flat braces. As I was sitting there, admiring my cleverness...... one of my parts guys wandered by and asked what was I making? I showed him that you could just take my clever little piece of aluminum and hold those float cages right tightly up into their seated position - so you could get consistent float height readings. |
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| He says..... It looks like you could just put the float bowl on with the front holes on the bowl lined up with the rear holes on the carb body and slap some screws in and it would do the same thing........... |
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| I bought him lunch with the
million $$ I didn't make....
Marc |
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Hello. Here’s the pics you asked for! Thanks for the help, the bike runs BEAUTIFULLY now, lots more power! The front end now comes up on the throttle – whereas it didn’t before! There’s another pic in there too where I used a bar code to measure the bowls. I found this a lot easier than using a ruler. I measured the bar next to the number “8” on my barcode to be the recommended height on my bike – 14mm. -Mike Beary
Thanks Mike, for the pics! |
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