Yamaha FJ1200, 86-94

SPECIAL Pricing

 

Carburetor Tuning Kits


CRB-Y08-1.0  $129.95

SPECIAL    97.46

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2.

 

STD drop-in carb recal kit

Boosts power a bit at full throttle, improves throttle response - especially at low rpm and part throttle, smoothing power delivery. Engine runs a bit cooler and usually smoother.

Comparison to dj kit: Much better driveability when properly tuned.


CRB-Y08-1.1-ti  $149.95

SPECIAL   112.46

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Ti ProKit

Titanium needles, drop-in kit uses Stainless Steel allen screws instead of zinc plated screws as in the #1.0 kits, otherwise, the same dimensions and jets sizes as the #1.0 kit.

Comparison to dj kit: Much better driveability when properly tuned.


CRB-Y08-3.0
$129.95
(no filters)

SPECIAL     97.46

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Use if you remove the stock airbox and replace it with individual filters. Use with aftermarket exhaust, makes best maximum power.

Comparison to dj kit: Much better driveability when properly tuned.

oem # 84 Yam pn: 16H-14141-90-00
oem # 85 Yam pn:   50h-14141-92-00

CRZ-EMU-100112k
$168 / 4pcs

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Ok - The average 1200 has accumulated a large number of miles - and by now, many of them have carbs on them that have really funky super-rich low rpm running "feature".
Runs well when cold - but kinda stumbly mess when warmed up? Mileage 25 - 22 mpg?

Sound like yours?
Or - you are the best guy or the new guy at a shop, lowered the fuel level, dropped to smaller than stock pilot jets and put the needle in the leanest position - AND taken out the stock plastic 2.5mm plastic spacer and still can't figure out why the customer's bike is still spitting out more fuel than a blown up middle eastern gasoline pipeline?

99% of the time, on a high mileage 1200, the needle jet orifice part of the "emulsion tube" probably looks like an egg.
(
needle jet wear, all carbs - click here)

That will allow too much fuel to rise up into the bore of the carb, decrease the engine's power and cause rich low rpm cruise and rich full throttle, low rpm running....     (Sound like yours?)

These needle jets are NOT what Yamaha would sell as replacements - They are full patented new design that atomizes fuel to a finer degree - allowing a leaner burn w/o misfire and more power potential - along with 20th century improvements, like plating for longer life -

A suggestion? Before you start trying to make your FJ run right or even attempt to properly jet, replace these parts!!!
 

Transmission Shift Improvement


SHFT-PRO-YAM-5   $99.95
(special order)

SPECIAL   77.46

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2.

Transmission Detent Arm Kit

Now that you've replaced the 2nd gear, it's mate and it's shift fork - Install this kit to make 2nd gear stay alive for years. Oh - nicer shifting, too.

Includes: Factory Pro Microbearing Detent Arm, Heavy duty detent spring and gasket. Makes shifting more positive at the expense of slightly stiffer shift lever action. The stronger detent spring rotates the shift drum faster, so the gears are more likely to engage under quick shift conditions. The Microbearing eliminates much friction, allowing the shift drum to rotate quicker for fewer missed shifts. Especially helpful in decreasing the 2nd gear and shift fork wear that the FJ1100's, FJ1200's and other bikes with large, heavy transmission gears are so well known for.
This kit fits both FJ1100 and FJ1200.

Ignition Components


(sample pic only)

RTR-YAM-6   88-94        $89.95
Does NOT fit 86-87 models

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2.

Ignition Advance Rotor

Coupled with CRB-Y08-1.0, 1.1-Ti or 3.0 Carb Recal Kit, this advance rotor will improve throttle response. That equates to more "snap" in throttle response and better in town performance for you! Easy to install with normal hand tools -

 

NOTE!

Discontinued but we will re make if you can buy 25 of them

marc@factorypro.com

 

Tools



TL-float height gauge

$59.95

SPECIAL   49.00

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The only way to accurately measure float heights. Works on nearly every carburetor.
More information on how to set floats, resultant fuel level, it's effect on low rpm fuel delivery, pictures.....
Float Height Page
Does NOT fit 86-87 models,
RTR-YAM-6
$89.95

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2.
International orders will be billed additional $18

Ignition Advance Rotor

Coupled with CRB-Y08-1.0, 1.1-Ti or 3.0 Carb Recal Kit, this advance rotor will improve throttle response. That equates to more "snap" in throttle response and better in town performance for you! Easy to install with normal hand tools -

 

NOTE!

Discontinued but we will re make if you can buy 25 of them

marc@factorypro.com

 

   

Mikuni:

Alternate

main jets
pilot jets
carb kit

While we try to include enough jets in our carb recalibration kits to tune stock engined bikes, sometimes you riders and tuners just can't resist tinkering for a bit more power - and that usually means that you need different pilot and or main jets.
We have them in stock and ship daily!

main jets
~$4.00ea

Pilot jets
~$5.00ea

Main jet  #221 small, round slotted
Main jet #604 large round slotted
Main jet other types available  .
Pilot jet 30/96 emulsion type
Pilot jet  151/067 non emulsion type

 

Subject:         FJ1200 Tuning
Date:               Sat, 20 Jan 2001 11:50:26 -0800
From:             "georgef" <georgef@c2i2.com>
To:                  <factory2@ix.netcom.com>

Thank you, thank you, thank you for your excellent site - who would have ever thought that lowering my float level .040" / 1mm would have transformed my bike so much.
1990 FJ1200
#45 pilot
needle #1170i-90q70rt
clip on /3 = center position
#132.5 main jets
fuel screws 3 turns out
Mid Arizona
70 degrees
1400 sea level
factory air box with six 1inch holes
K7N filter

Glad it all worked out, George. I think it's best to teach how to solve the problem!
Thanks for the feedback!
Marc


 

Feb 03,1999

Hello,
I have a 1991 Yamaha FJ1200, and saw a tech article in Rider magazine about a problem that these bikes exhibit. At low speed, the throttle is nearly "light switch" touchy on my bike, and the article said that this was normal for FJ's but there was a solution. The article went on the explain that the FJ1200 has a very sharp ignition advance curve, about 33 degrees difference from 1000 to
2500 rpm. I checked the shop manual and saw that this was correct.

Rider magazine referred to your company as one offering a fix for this tendency. I checked your website and noticed that the FJ1200 was not listed (or I didn't see it) and was wondering if you offer an ignition advancer for this bike and at what cost. Also, do you know why the factory would put such a sharp curve in the advance of the ignition? Normally this is not a problem, but at parking lot speeds it can be quite a handful, as you can imagine.

Any help you could give me would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Chris D.

Well, well, there's an FJ1200 page now!

Actually, the problem is twofold - the low-end carburetion is too lean and the ignition timing curve is pretty aggressive at low rpm.
Try adding the advance and see if that's enough. Adding the Carb Recal Kit and the advance will cure the FJ's "twitchy throttle" when properly tuned.

BTW - The FJ1100 needs the carb kit before the advance - as the advance alone will cause a light pinging at cruising speed when going up slight hills on the freeway.

Thanks for the question,
Marc


Tech Tidbits

 

Carb overflowing while sitting

Hi Marc,
 
thought I would update you on my carbs just as an FYI.  I was able to punch out the pins and remove the floats.  Cleaned the openings but had the same results, fuel overflow when the fuel pump turned on.  As is so happens, on this particular model of carb the entire needle valve assembly can be removed.  The needle valve assembly O rings had dried up and so the proper pressure wasn't being created in the fuel bowl due to the gas forcing its way around the bad rings.  I noticed that the valve assemblies were kind of loose when I wiggled them and that was when I suspected the O rings.  I've replaced them with similar size O rings and the problem is solved.
 
Thanks for the assistance and I hope this info comes in handy for someone else in the future.  I would never have found the problem if I hadn't been able to remove the floats.
 
v/r
 
John
----- Original Message -----
To: John
Sent: Friday, March 23, 2007 6:47 PM
Subject: Re: FJ1200 Carb problem

 
John wrote:
Hi Guys,
 
GREAT WEBSITE!!!!  I hope you can help me.  I'm experiencing a problem with my 91 FJ1200.  I've tried several time to clean the carbs with varying degrees of success.  I continue to have a fuel overflow situation.  I suspect that one or more of my float valves aren't seating properly to stop the flow.  The floats seem to be installed with pressed rods and I don't want to break something.  Is it possible that the floats are not removable?  This is the only part of the carbs that I haven't been able to remove and clean.  If I need a rebuild kit, how can I identify the carbs on this bike or is that an issue if they're the stock carbs?  
 
John   
Hi John -
Thanks!

Hmm...
I use a very small punch and tap out the steel rod that the floats pivot on.
SMALL taps, as you CAN break the posts!
I've used a nail to tap the rod out, in a pinch.

Make SURE you are punching the right directeion -

Marc
 

 

 

Float Height Measuring

"touching, but not compressing the float valve spring"

Needle Jet wear
(sometimes called "worn emulsion tubes)
Inspect your brass needle jets for wear when you take out the needles. If the needle jets have oval wear pattern, they will allow excess fuel to pass by the needle causing excess low speed richness.
The fuel will also consist of more, large drops, rather than small drops. Large drops of fuel tend to drop out of the airflow and not burn.
Check out Tech Section for "Needle Jets, Mikuni, worn"

Tech



Go to General Technical Support

 

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