Teka SFI 2 Tuning
Tune idle and small throttle openings first. The smaller throttle openings
affect the larger throttle openings.
The TEKA SFI is a 16 and 32 bit ecu tuning, REALTIME device - as you change
the arrows right (rich) or left (lean), the SFI changes the values and FI pulse width as the engine
When you are changing 10% throttle, the mixture is actually changing AS YOU PUSH
THE right / left ARROW KEYS. That's how you can get the on/off throttle at high rpm / no load
perfectly smooth. You just change the mixture as the engine is at high rpm
/ no load (as in entering a corner on a racetrack) and change the mixture and work
the throttle slightly positive/neutral till it becomes "silky".
The only "Realtime" exception is "Idle" with "ALL" cylinders selected - that is the
only setting that programs 1 by 1, each cylinder, when you push "ENTER". However,
if you select a single cylinder, it changes that single cylinder in realtime.
In Classic Mode (w/o MMT installed) the
TEKA SFI will remember the last programmed settings
that you programmed with.
If you install a MMT Memory Module,
the SFI will read the MMT and compare the two maps and then give you a choice of using the MMT stored
settings, or whatever is stored in the
SFI's Classic memory.
Example: You are tuning with the SFI (w/o MMT) and then decide to install an
MMT. Then you'll have the option of using what's stored in the SFI OR whatever's
in the MMT (all zero when new).
When you are modifying a new bike, it's required to set all the ECU's values to
"zero" with the SFI to make sure that the ECU is all stock and the TEKA is
The TEKA SFI will always remember it's last programmed values - regardless of which bike
It's not currently possible to "read" the ECU to get the values that the ECU is
programmed at - BUT! if you are using the MMT module, the SFI WILL read the MMT,
which will be the values that are or would be programmed into the bike's ECU.
TEKA remembers the last settings you did, so, you can power
up the TEKA and read what you did to this bike last (as stored in the Teka SFI).
Just make sure that you are looking at the bike you are working on and aren't looking at the bike you did previously.
Generally, when you use the Teka SFI on one bike
(without the MMT), the Teka SFI stored settings will be correct for that bike.
If you are using the TEKA SFI 2 (without an MMT) on multiple bikes, you would log
each bike's settings
on paper, or, on racebikes - just grab a marking pen and jot the settings
on the bike, itself.
To make life easier, use one MMT module on each bike.
If you didn't catch the above MMT drift, it's
much easier to use an MMT module for repeated tuning - and the MMT gives the
rider / tuner the option to easily richen or lean out the "tuned map" - or even
set the ECU back to "zero", with a small screwdriver "click" on a switch.
Zeroing the stock ECU
- Bike ignition "off".
- Locate the Suzuki Access Port connector.
- gsxr's: Usually
on the upper, rear, LEFT hand side of the bike, behind the frame side panel,
just below the seat.
- gsxr's, later models: it's on the right side rear of the
battery, somewhat buried - It's always "capped" when stock.
- Remove the connector cover.
- Connect the TEKA tool to the 8 pin Suzuki connector.
- TPS harness: Install the TPS harness to a ground wire and
the active TPS wire - on the gsxr's usually a pink/black wire that goes into
the small connector on the ECU.
- Turn on ignition and make sure that the Engine
Stop switch is set in "RUN" position.
- TEKA graphics display should be activated and
show "Factory Pro" splash screen, indicating that it is powered up and ready.
Plug the Teka SFI 2 into bike's tuning 8 pin tuning connector.
Turn key "ON". Make sure that the bike's "Run" switch is in
the "ON" position, too.
On the initial screen display, down arrow key to highlight "USE
On the screen display, down arrow key to highlight "RESET
Read the verification screen.
- Press "ENTER" to start "zeroing"
dialog. Read the screen. You can hit the "BACK" button to back out of "zeroing".
Now you are at the final "RESET TO ZERO VALUES" screen.
Hit "ENTER" to "zero all" OR you can still, one
last time, hit "BACK" to exit the "reset to zero" screen.
After you hit "ENTER", you can see each "RUN" and "IDLE"
range being reprogrammed back to "zero".
Run Adjust: Low range
Warm up bike.
- If it's warm, it's best to have a fan blowing over the
front of the bike.
Set idle speed as low as possible.
On the TEKA, select "USE SFI II PROFILE" with up/down
Next, selecting "IDLE ADJUST", hit "ENTER".
- To tune "ALL" cylinders to "some value of your choice" at
down arrow to select "ALL".
- Adjust the fueling richer or leaner, then hit "ENTER" That will adjust all cylinders to
your equal FI setting.
You can usually hear each cylinder change sequentially as the programmer
starts at cylinder 1 and programs each, down the line.
- Adjust "ALL" richer or leaner till you get best idle.
- Now would be a good time to use a high speed 4 gas
EGA....... AFR meters are often unreliable at idle.
- Repeat until done.
- Hit "BACK" to go back up to the "Idle / Run" selection
- To tune "individual cylinders"
- Select cylinder 1, then R/L arrow to realtime change 1
- Adjust till the rpm's increase, just like you'd do with
fuel screws in a carburetor.
- Repeat with each cylinder till done.
- Hit "BACK" to go back up to the "Idle / Run" selection
10% throttle range (affects cruise high rpm/part throttle
as in entering a tight corner)
Run Adjust: High range
With engine fully warmed, but coolant temp around
180f/82c - 190f/87c, select "USE SFI II PROFILE" or "RUN ADJUST, MANUAL", hit "ENTER", then use up/down arrow keys
to highlight the 10% throttle range, RH/LH arrow keys adjust the 0-10%
- Note: "idle" and "0-10% throttle" are interrelated and
idle mixture is somewhat affected by the "idle"
Do NOT let coolant temp exceed 200f / 93c - The ECU will try to compensate and
throw the mixture off when it "corrects" for coolant temp. when running.
With the bike in neutral, bring the rpm up to
an rpm that you want to optimize (as in 9k for a racebike inline 4 cylinder
or 5,000 to 7,000 rpm for a streetbike) and R/L arrow key to make the
bike run smoothest at desired rpm/no load.
It can help to "lock" your thumb across the
grip "flange" and the throttle housing. When the mixture is better, the
rpm will increase - along with getting smoother. Ha! Almost like tuning
It wouldn't hurt to go back to the idle settings
at the end, to make sure that the optimum idle settings haven't changed, as
the 0-10% and idle are somewhat interrelated.
Tuning with no load may seem odd, but, when entering
a corner at high rpm / at neutral and part throttle positions, that's exactly what you are
doing - no load / high rpm.
On the EC997
Low Inertia dyno, put the bike in top gear and use the Realtime Engine
Smoothness Display to adjust for best engine smoothness.
Do NOT use an O2 sensor to guess at A/F ratios - they are wrong and will
mislead. Even though they sell thousands of "AFR" meters - it's still
only a very rough idea of what's going on - They are only for very rough adjustments - not optimal.
and 50% and
75% throttle range (or 20%, 40%, 60%, 80% if using the optional MMT module)
Run Adjust: 100% throttle
With engine fully warmed, but coolant temp around
180f/82c - 190f/87c, select "RUN ADJUST, MANUAL" with up/down arrow, hit "Enter", then
use up/down arrow keys to highlight the 25% throttle range.
As you hit the arrow keys, the fuel WILL change.
When on a 4 Gas EGA EC997 dyno, use 5%-5.5% as
a target CO% to "rough in" mixture. Then test, using EC997 Realtime HP display.
Tune for best power at 25% throttle.
When test riding, bring bike up to 5k in first
gear. Hold it there.
Then, "snap" the throttle to
25% open and note the engine response. Add
+20 and try it again. Keep trying, in increments of 10 or 20, either + or -, until
you get the best "snap" response. When you reach that point, it's time to
continue on to the 50% range, then the 75% range.
Incidentally, it's not required to press
"Enter" until you want to leave a particular throttle range and change
throttle ranges. The TEKA does realtime mixture changes, except when
in "IDLE ADJ" and have "ALL" selected.
All you need to do, when doing 10%, 25%,
75% and 100% throttle is to use the RH/LH arrows to richen or lean the
mixture. Don't bother hitting "Enter" until you want to exit and
tune a different throttle position - the arrow keys change the
mixture when you change them, in realtime. If you do hit
"Enter", that's when the values are flashed, though.
Leave the TEKA connected to the
bike when testing or take it off - makes no difference.
Select 100% throttle, set at
Test ride or dyno for
power at full throttle.
Add +20, test ride or dyno.
If +20 is better at full
throttle/high rpm than 0%, try +40, and so on.
If +20 is worse at full throttle/high
rpm, try leaning out the mixture, in steps of 20.
This is too easy........
It's not unrealistic to end up at -60 after
you've done the smaller throttle positions on some bikes.
When finished tuning and
getting ready to remove the Teka SFI 2, make SURE that you hit "Back" and
exit the "tuning screen". This "hard flashes" the last
setting into the ECU.
The so-called "16 bit" ECU's generally used increments of "20" to make
significant fuel changes.
The "32 bit" ECU's generally use "5" as a significant increment.
What I call "significant change" is roughly he amount of fuel to equal about
a main jet change.
It's not too important to actually know if you have a 16 or 32 bit ECU - if
5 doesn't change it enough, use a larger value. That's what you would do if
I didn't tell you anything, anyway. :-)
SV650/1000 "32 bit" ECU's
Not 100% sure why only the SV's do this (and not the other "32 bit" ECU's),
but SV's hiccup when downloading.
There are some reasons as to why - it has to do with the
ECU's RAM and Flash memory addressing.
Everything still works peachy (translate: "fine")
and all programming is indeed, still written properly.
Zero on the Teka SFI vs. Zero / Suzuki default, as delivered, settings.
If you set the TEKA SFI to "zero" and program at all the throttle positions
and idle - you will have reset the ECU back to 100% all stock, "in the
middle" fuel mapping.
If you were learning how to tune, and got confused, you can always spend 30
seconds and start all over again with original Suzuki zero settings.
"% of change"
Regardless of what might be inferred from the old or new
TEKA SFI 2 display, don't look at the changes
as percentages from the zero setting and then percentage changes from the
percentage amount already changed.
The so-called "percentage change" should be looked at as an "offset" from
the zero point.
In this case, if you don't understand what I just wrote, that's good! Carry
ECU Losing maps if battery is
The mapping is flashed into nonvolatile memory.
I have, in many hundreds (thousands?) of Suzuki
tunes, found a single TL1000s that would not hold a map more than 2-3 hours.
Coincidentally, it had always run poorly, since 1998. We fixed it in 2004 by
putting on another 1998 ECU and retuning it.
I think that the rumor that the ECU would reset itself if you disconnected
the battery was started with the real concept that automotive ECU's have
multiple memory locations, one of which is volatile, "learned" memory that
is cleared when power is disconnected for 15 minutes or so.
For the Latest Instructions, check out
or visit the Product Support Section at
wires for SFI 2 TPS Display activation (In
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