Teka SFI 2Tuning Modes
Adaptive Suzuki Fuel Injection Adjuster
SFI 2 page

The Teka SFI 2 Tuner Tool and optional MM Memory Module / tuning module system is a new, exciting concept in cost effective, efficient Suzuki tuning.

The SFI 2 Tuner can be used in several different modes, ranging from the Classic Mode, which is almost exactly the same as the original Teka SFI tool, to the user fine tunable MM Memory Module method with or without the new TPS % display - to the Universal TPS Display for TPS equipped non-Suzuki's.

The SFI 2 Tuner checks for the TPS attachment and for  the MMT module. The new SFI 2 screen menus are adaptive, in that the screen selections are appropriate to the SFI 2, the MMT and TPS display accessories

If you use the SFI 2 without the optional TPS harness and without an MMT Module, you'll get the "Classic" menus and no mention will be made on the screen SFI of the TPS or "Advanced" MMT module's functions.
Add the user tweakable MMT (Memory Module Tuner) and the throttle position % tuning ranges increase in resolution on the SFI screen.
Add the TPS harness and additional menu items appear, relating to calibrating and displaying the throttle % opening on the SFI.
Add the battery pack and the TPS harness and you can use it on any bike with a TPS sensor, Suzuki, or not, carbed or fuel injected.


Teka SFI 2 Tuning

Tune idle and small throttle openings first. The smaller throttle openings affect the larger throttle openings.

The TEKA SFI is a 16 and 32 bit ecu tuning, REALTIME device - as you change the arrows right (rich) or left (lean), the SFI changes the values and FI pulse width as the engine is running. 

When you are changing 10% throttle, the mixture is actually changing AS YOU PUSH THE right / left ARROW KEYS. That's how you can get the on/off throttle at high rpm / no load perfectly smooth. You just change the mixture as the engine is at  high rpm / no load (as in entering a corner on a racetrack) and change the mixture and work the throttle slightly positive/neutral till it becomes "silky".

The only "Realtime" exception is "Idle" with "ALL" cylinders selected - that is the only setting that programs 1 by 1, each cylinder, when you push "ENTER". However, if you select a single cylinder, it changes that single cylinder in realtime.

In Classic Mode (w/o MMT installed)  the TEKA SFI will remember the last programmed settings that you programmed with.
If you install a MMT Memory Module, the SFI will read the MMT and compare the two maps  and then give you a choice of using the MMT stored settings, or whatever is stored in the SFI's Classic memory.
Example: You are tuning with the SFI (w/o MMT) and then decide to install an MMT. Then you'll have the option of using what's stored in the SFI OR whatever's in the MMT (all zero when new).

When you are modifying a new bike, it's required to set all the ECU's values to "zero" with the SFI to make sure that the ECU is all stock and the TEKA is reading "zero".

The TEKA SFI will always remember it's last programmed values - regardless of which bike it was.
It's not currently possible to "read" the ECU to get the values that the ECU is programmed at - BUT! if you are using the MMT module, the SFI WILL read the MMT, which will be the values that are or would be  programmed into the bike's ECU.

TEKA remembers the last settings you did, so, you can power up the TEKA and read what you did to this bike last (as stored in the Teka SFI). Just make sure that you are looking at the bike you are working on and aren't looking at the bike you did previously.

Generally, when you use the Teka SFI on one bike (without the MMT), the Teka SFI stored settings will be correct for that bike.

If you are using the TEKA SFI 2 (without an MMT) on multiple bikes, you would log each bike's settings on paper, or, on racebikes - just grab a marking pen and jot the settings on the bike, itself.
To make life easier, use one  MMT module on each bike.

If you didn't catch the above MMT drift, it's much easier to use an MMT module for repeated tuning - and the MMT gives the rider / tuner the option to easily richen or lean out the "tuned map" - or even set the ECU back to "zero", with a small screwdriver "click" on a switch.

Initial setup:

  1. Bike ignition "off".
  2. Locate the Suzuki Access Port connector.
    1. gsxr's: Usually on the upper, rear, LEFT hand side of the bike, behind the frame side panel, just below the seat.
    2. gsxr's, later models: it's on the right side rear of the battery, somewhat buried - It's always "capped" when stock.
  3. Remove the connector cover.
  4. Connect the TEKA tool to the 8 pin Suzuki connector.
  5. TPS harness: Install the TPS harness to a ground wire and the active TPS wire - on the gsxr's usually a pink/black wire that goes into the small connector on the ECU.
  6. Turn on ignition and make sure that the Engine Stop switch is set in "RUN" position.
  7. TEKA graphics display should be activated and show "Factory Pro" splash screen, indicating that it is powered up and ready.
Zeroing the stock ECU
  1. Plug the Teka SFI 2 into bike's tuning 8 pin tuning connector.
  2. Turn key "ON". Make sure that the bike's "Run" switch is in the "ON" position, too.
  3. On the initial screen display, down arrow key to highlight "USE ZERO VALUES".
  4. Hit "ENTER".
  5. On the screen display, down arrow key to highlight "RESET TO ZERO".
  6. Hit "ENTER".
  7. Read the verification screen.
    1. Press "ENTER" to start "zeroing" dialog. Read the screen. You can hit the "BACK" button to back out of "zeroing".
  8. Now you are at the final "RESET TO ZERO VALUES" screen.
  9. Hit "ENTER" to "zero all" OR you can still, one last time, hit "BACK" to exit the "reset to zero" screen.
  10. After you hit "ENTER", you can see each "RUN" and "IDLE" range being reprogrammed back to "zero".
Idle setup
  1. Warm up bike.
    1. If it's warm, it's best to have a fan blowing over the front of the bike.
  2. Set idle speed as low as possible.
  3. On the TEKA, select "USE SFI II PROFILE" with up/down arrows.
  4. Next, selecting "IDLE ADJUST", hit "ENTER".
    1. To tune "ALL" cylinders to "some value of your choice" at idle, down arrow to select "ALL".
      1. Adjust the fueling richer or leaner, then hit "ENTER" That will adjust all cylinders to your equal FI setting. You can usually hear each cylinder change sequentially as the programmer starts at cylinder 1 and programs each, down the line.
      2. Adjust "ALL" richer or leaner till you get best idle.
      3. Now would be a good time to use a high speed 4 gas EGA....... AFR meters are often unreliable at idle.
      4. Repeat until done.
      5. Hit "BACK" to go back up to the "Idle / Run" selection screen.
    2. To tune "individual cylinders"
      1. Select cylinder 1, then R/L arrow to realtime change 1 cylinder's fueling.
      2. Adjust till the rpm's increase, just like you'd do with fuel screws in a carburetor.
      3. Repeat with each cylinder till done.
    3. Hit "BACK" to go back up to the "Idle / Run" selection screen.
Run Adjust: Low range
10% throttle range (affects cruise high rpm/part throttle as in entering a tight corner)
  1. With engine fully warmed, but coolant temp around 180f/82c - 190f/87c, select "USE SFI II PROFILE" or "RUN ADJUST, MANUAL", hit "ENTER", then use up/down arrow keys to highlight the 10% throttle range,  RH/LH arrow keys adjust the 0-10% fueling.
    1. Note: "idle" and "0-10% throttle" are interrelated and idle mixture is somewhat affected by the "idle"
      Do NOT let coolant temp exceed 200f / 93c - The ECU will try to compensate and throw the mixture off when it "corrects" for coolant temp. when running.
  2. With the bike in neutral, bring the rpm up to an rpm that you want to optimize (as in 9k for a racebike inline 4 cylinder or 5,000 to 7,000 rpm for a streetbike)  and R/L arrow key to make the bike run smoothest at desired rpm/no load.
    1. It can help to "lock" your thumb across the grip "flange" and the throttle housing. When the mixture is better, the rpm will increase - along with getting smoother. Ha! Almost like tuning slide carbs!
  3. It wouldn't hurt to go back to the idle settings at the end, to make sure that the optimum idle settings haven't changed, as the 0-10% and idle are somewhat interrelated.
  4. Tuning with no load may seem odd, but, when entering a corner at high rpm / at neutral and part throttle positions, that's exactly what you are doing - no load / high rpm.
  5. On the EC997 Low Inertia dyno, put the bike in top gear and use the Realtime Engine Smoothness Display to adjust for best engine smoothness.
     Do NOT use an O2 sensor to guess at A/F ratios - they are wrong and will mislead. Even though they sell thousands of "AFR" meters - it's still only a very rough idea of what's going on - They are only for very rough adjustments - not optimal.
Run Adjust: High range
and 50% and
75% throttle range (or 20%, 40%, 60%, 80% if using the optional MMT module)
  1. With engine fully warmed, but coolant temp around 180f/82c - 190f/87c, select "RUN ADJUST, MANUAL" with up/down arrow, hit "Enter", then use up/down arrow keys to highlight the 25% throttle range.
  2. As you hit the arrow keys, the fuel WILL change.
  3. When on a 4 Gas EGA EC997 dyno, use 5%-5.5% as a target CO% to "rough in" mixture. Then test, using EC997 Realtime HP display. Tune for best power at 25% throttle.
  4. When test riding, bring bike up to 5k in first gear. Hold it there.
    1.  Then, "snap" the throttle to 25% open and note the engine response. Add +20 and try it again. Keep trying, in increments of 10 or 20, either + or -, until you get the best "snap" response. When you reach that point, it's time to continue on to the 50% range, then the 75% range.
      1. Incidentally, it's not required to press "Enter" until you want to leave a particular throttle range and change throttle ranges. The TEKA does realtime mixture changes, except when you are in "IDLE ADJ" and have "ALL" selected.
      2. All you need to do, when doing 10%, 25%, 75% and 100% throttle is to use the RH/LH arrows to richen or lean the mixture. Don't bother hitting "Enter" until you want to exit and tune a different throttle position -  the arrow keys change the mixture when you change them, in realtime.  If you do hit "Enter", that's when the values are flashed, though.
Run Adjust: 100% throttle
  1. Leave the TEKA connected to the bike when testing or take it off - makes no difference.
  2. Select 100% throttle, set at "0".
  3. Test ride or dyno for power at full throttle.
  4. Add +20, test ride or dyno.
    1. If +20 is better at full throttle/high rpm than 0%, try +40, and so on.
    2. If +20 is worse at full throttle/high rpm, try leaning out the mixture, in steps of 20.
  5. This is too easy........
  6. It's not unrealistic to end up at -60 after you've done the smaller throttle positions on some bikes.
  1. When finished tuning and getting ready to remove the Teka SFI 2, make SURE that you hit "Back" and exit the "tuning screen". This "hard flashes" the last setting into the ECU.


Tuning Increments

The so-called "16 bit" ECU's generally used increments of "20" to make significant fuel changes.
The "32 bit" ECU's generally use "5" as a significant increment.
What I call "significant change" is roughly he amount of fuel to equal about a main jet change.
It's not too important to actually know if you have a 16 or 32 bit ECU - if 5 doesn't change it enough, use a larger value. That's what you would do if I didn't tell you anything, anyway.  :-)

SV650/1000 "32 bit" ECU's

Not 100% sure why only the SV's do this (and not the other "32 bit" ECU's), but SV's hiccup when downloading.
There are some reasons as to why - it has to do with the ECU's RAM and Flash memory addressing.
Everything still works peachy (translate: "fine") and all programming is indeed, still written properly.

Zero on the Teka SFI vs. Zero / Suzuki default, as delivered, settings.

If you set the TEKA SFI to "zero" and program at all the throttle positions and idle - you will have reset the ECU back to 100% all stock, "in the middle" fuel mapping.
If you were learning how to tune, and got confused, you can always spend 30 seconds and start all over again with original Suzuki zero settings.
No drama.

"% of change"

Regardless of what might be inferred from the old or new TEKA SFI 2 display, don't look at the changes as percentages from the zero setting and then percentage changes from the percentage amount already changed.
The so-called "percentage change" should be looked at as an "offset" from the zero point.
In this case, if you don't understand what I just wrote, that's good! Carry on!

ECU Losing maps if battery is disconnected
The mapping is flashed into nonvolatile memory.
I have, in many hundreds (thousands?) of Suzuki tunes, found a single TL1000s that would not hold a map more than 2-3 hours. Coincidentally, it had always run poorly, since 1998. We fixed it in 2004 by putting on another 1998 ECU and retuning it.
I think that the rumor that the ECU would reset itself if you disconnected the battery was started with the real concept that automotive ECU's have multiple memory locations, one of which is volatile, "learned" memory that is cleared when power is disconnected for 15 minutes or so.

For the Latest Instructions, check out
or visit the Product Support Section at www.factorypro.com

TPS wires for SFI 2 TPS Display activation (In www.factorypro.com Product Support Section)

Marc      Questions? Comments? Email us! Click here

model year SFI plug location
B-King 08-09 under Left side plastic cover, beside the seat.
You'll usually have to remove the cover and cut a zip tie to relocate the 8 pin Teka connector under the seat for future easy access.
sv / dl 650 all FI under Left side plastic cover, beside the seat.
You'll usually have to remove the cover and cut a zip tie to relocate the 8 pin Teka connector under the seat for future easy access.
gsxr 600, 750, 1000 98-99 -aprox 05
(the "earlier" years)
under Left side plastic cover, beside the seat.
You'll usually have to remove the cover and cut a zip tie to relocate the 8 pin Teka connector under the seat for future easy access.
gsxr 600, 750, 1000 later gsxr models behind the battery, buried under other connectors.
Always, first look under the LH frame panel
Hayabusa 99-07 under Left side plastic cover, beside the seat.
You'll usually have to remove the cover and cut a zip tie to relocate the 8 pin Teka connector under the seat for future easy access.
Hayabusa 08-09 info@factorypro.com to verify location - I believe that it's under the Left side plastic cover, like the B-King.
M109 all years under triangular panel, left side, in front of the "fuel tank", right at the steering stem.
other models   info@factorypro.com to verify or submit location

draft instructions, not public